Seville City Guide

Double Trouble ‘Lover’ T-shirt | Baukjen Black Leather Skirt* | Baukjen Leather Belt* | Converse Chuck Taylors in Black | A.P.C. Half-Moon Bag in Black
Sandro Veinarde Leather Biker Jacket in Black | Sunspel Stripe T-Shirt* | A.P.C. Half-Moon Bag in Black | Loewe Leather Espadrilles

You must visit Seville. Old or young, rich or poor this is a city with something for everyone. We visited in early November, a little bit risky as the temperature is a unpredictable then but (as you can see from my photos) we were lucky, with warm weather. Had we been there a week earlier (the last week of September) we would have been hit with temperatures in the low 30s, unbelievable for September. If you’re looking for a late summer city break I think Seville is perfect.

I imagine that mid-summer is pretty busy in Seville, in November there were queues for all the big tourist spots but it was pleasant walking around the city, and we were able to get a table when we wanted, wherever we wanted. We were told that Seville has the largest ‘old town’ in Europe which is probably what makes it such a wonderful place to stroll around, it really is a beautiful city.

I arrived with a list as long as my arm of places to see and eat but this is a city best enjoyed when you go with the flow, trust me you won’t go wrong. We saw a lot of the famous sites as we wandered around, with the unexpected weather and incredible architecture, it was too lovely outside to hideaway inside. The Catedral is magnificent and huge (one of the largest Christian churches in Europe), we walked around it and then headed to the gardens of the Royal Alcázar, walking down narrow alleyways and through pretty courtyards on our way.

There are so many great places to eat and such good food in Seville. If you’re a foodie it’s worth spending the day wondering from one tapas restaurant to another, sharing a plate or two and a glass of local wine in each. It’s impossible to visit them all in a weekend but worth giving it a go. We had some help from Gerry from Pure Andalusia, an English ex-pat that has lived in the area for over a decade and is very knowledgable. She organises some amazing food tours throughout the region so if you’re looking for an expert look no further.

There is still so much for me to explore in Seville and I will definitely be returning before long. Here’s a list of my favourites from this trip.


Seville City Guide

ARTS & CULTURE

Catedral de Sevilla
It’s hard to miss this remarkable cathedral in the centre of Seville.
Av. de la Constitución, s/n, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

Royal Alcázar
A stunning Moorish palace, surrounded by lush gardens.
Patio de Banderas, s/n, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

SHOPPING

Rue 8
Stop in here for a  jewellery.
Pl. de S. Francisco, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

Castañer
The most famous espadrilles to come out of Spain.
Calle Sierpes, 38, 41001 Sevilla, Spain

Sombreros Maquedano
A small shop selling beautifully made traditional Spanish hats.
Calle Sierpes, 40, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

CAFÉS, BARS & RESTAURANTS

Mamarracha
An easy, laid-back place to enjoy a few plates of tapas.
Calle Hernando Colón, 1-3, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

No-Lugar
Great food in an amazing space with beautiful artwork that you can buy.
Calle Trajano, 16, 41002 Sevilla, Spain

Bolas
The most amazing ice cream, an essential stop on a warm evening stroll.
Cuesta del Rosario, 1, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

La Azotea
Some of the best tapas we had in Seville, and great wine too!
Calle Jesús del Gran Poder, 31, 41002 Sevilla, Spain

Mariatrifulca
Delicious food with an amazing view over the river and Puente de Triana.
Puente de Triana, esquina Plaza del Altozano, 41010 Sevilla, Spain

STAY

Corral del Rey
A luxury hotel, beautifully designed with a homely feel.
Calle Corral del Rey 12, 41004 Sevilla

Hotel Palacio de Villapanés
An elegantly restored palace that’s now a hotel.
Calle Santiago, 31, 41003 Sevilla

Corral del Rey, Seville

This post was created in collaboration with Corral del Rey.

Tucked away in Seville’s old Barrio Alfalfa quarter is the Calle Corral del Rey, a small cobbled street where the buildings almost touch. Split between two buildings (on either side of the street) is the Corral del Rey boutique hotel. From the street there’s little to give it away, just a large wooden door and a small sign in the wall. Once inside, it feels intimate and you feel protected by the building. Seville is by no means chaotic but there’s something uniquely relaxing and private about this restored 17th century casa palacio. With just 17 rooms it’s not a noisy, bustling hotel and, at times, we felt as though we had the place to ourselves.

We stayed in a room on the top floor and although not huge (it wasn’t easy squeezing in our two large suitcases), it was beautifully designed. There’s a homely style throughout the building that brings together comfort and luxury in equal measures. Our room had a small Juliet balcony that allowed us to look onto the Calle Corral del Rey below. Our bathroom was almost the same size as our bedroom, with stunning limestone used throughout.

The staff at the hotel are discreet but quick to respond to any request, and the room service is exceptional. One evening we chose to have a chilled night in, ordered food from room service and watched movies on Netflix. I ordered the pumpkin soup, cheese and ham croquetas, and an avocado and mozzarella salad. It arrived hot and was incredibly delicious. Breakfast at the hotel was equally delicious, with tasty eggs and acorn-fed ham, fresh fruit, breads, jams and croissants.

The hotel is located close to the Cathedral and a short walk from some incredible tapas bars, so it’s perfectly located for exploring the city. On the roof there is a little oasis; tables and chairs, sun-beds, plunge pool and an honesty bar to escape to when your feet are too to walk any more. There’s also a lovely lounge to relax in, across the street in the other building.

Corral del Rey, Calle Corral del Rey 12, 41004 Sevilla

Ethical & Beautiful Resortwear From Cloe Cassandro

Cloe Cassandro Kimi Wrap Mini Dress* | Sandro Veinarde Leather Biker Jacket in Black | Converse Chuck Taylors in Black | Ace & Tate Vivian Sunglasses in Matte Black* | A Weathered Penny Gold Wire Circle Hoops* | Merci Maman Large Hammered 10th Anniversary Necklace in Gold* | Merci Maman The Merci Maman Necklace*

This year, I’ve finally embraced the dress (more specifically, the wrap dress) and I’m not alone, if Instagram is anything to go by. It’s more than likely that you’ve already discovered both Réalisation Par and Reformation but there’s another brand I’ve been wearing that’s a little more under the radar, Cloe Cassandro.

Cloe Cassandro make beautiful silk-chiffon dresses (as well as other resort wear, including swimwear). They work with local artisans in Bali where everything is handmade, hand dyed and hand printed using traditional Balinese batik printing techniques. They describe themselves as an ‘ethical luxury beachwear brand’ that aim ‘to create simple, classic pieces’ that ‘are produced ethically and to the highest standard’. Basically, all good things I love to hear.

I took the Kimi dress out to Seville and, with the weather being unseasonably mild, it was ideal with a biker thrown over the top and a pair on Converse. It’s quite sheer but it comes with a slip dress you can wear underneath when you need to be more modest. Otherwise, it’s the perfect cover-up by the pool or at the beach.

Haçienda de San Rafael, Seville

This post was created in collaboration with Haçienda de San Rafael.

The Haçienda de San Rafael, just outside Seville, is (without question) my favourite of all the hotels I’ve stayed in this year. The property is surrounded by olive groves and fields that are full of cotton plants in the summer. The sandy lane that leads from the main road up to the hotel gives little away. The trees divide, opening up to reveal the haçienda, a stunning old white building that surrounds a pretty cobbled courtyard. An old well draws your eye in the centre and around the outside established pink and yellow bougainvillea. Each of the rooms is accessed from the courtyard and there’s a small dining area in front of each where you can sit and enjoy breakfast or lunch. It’s impossible not to enjoy either (or dinner for that matter); food here feels both indulgent and healthy. The Galician style octopus with potato that I had for lunch the day we arrived was tender and full of flavour; I can still conjure up its taste and texture now, weeks later.

If I was to use one word to describe what I felt at Haçienda de San Rafael it would be tranquility. I was incredibly relaxed whilst there and didn’t want to leave; two nights just wasn’t enough. It’s not one thing that makes it special but an amalgamation of so many small details that they get so right. There’s a very homely feel suffused into every room, thanks to the attention to detail of Cookie, the mother of the two brothers that now run the Haçienda de San Rafael. Cookie’s influence can be seen everywhere you look, she and her family are visible on the walls, in the pictures and paintings around the building. When you sit down in the living area you feel as though you’re in her home. I suppose on some level you are, although she doesn’t live there, the building has been in her family for many years.

The bedrooms are simply decorated with a few well-chosen decorative details. Ours had a double height bedroom area, with stairs leading up to a cosy lounge, and below it a large bathroom with a wonderful shower and a bath tub I happily whiled-away at least an hour in. I don’t know what they wash their towels with but I’ve never felt any so soft.

The gardens are perfect for a wander before dinner, we caught the sun setting over the olive grove which was incredibly beautiful. We then headed in for a gin and tonic from their honesty bar in the lounge, before sitting down to a delicious three-course dinner which included some perfectly cooked sea bass. A comforting hot chocolate back in the lounge after dinner and we were ready to sink into our bed for an incredible night’s sleep. We then got to do it all over again the next day!

The Haçienda de San Rafael is a 45 minute drive from Seville, we got a taxi to take us out there as we weren’t planning to go anywhere once we arrived but if you’re staying longer a car’s a very good idea as there’s plenty to explore in the area. I arranged to go on a 2 hour horse trek with Gerry from Pure Andalusia. The stables are halfway between the haçienda and Seville which made it a perfect stop on our way back into the city. Gerry took me through old olive groves, fields and eucalyptus woods on an incredibly well-behaved horse. It was a wonderful way to spend a couple of hours, even if I could still feel it in my legs three days later. It gave me a great feel for the area and I immediately understood what had drawn Gerry to move out there in the first place. If you’re looking for someone to take you hiking or would like to explore the vast food and drink specialities of the region, Gerry can organise it all.

Haçienda de San Rafael, Carretera Nacional IV (km 594), Las Cabezas de San Juan, 41730 Sevilla

Keeping It Basic with Organic Basics

Organic Basics White Female Tee* | Mango Committed Relaxed Jeans in White | Wåven Men’s Denim Jacket | Loewe Repeat Espadrille in Burgundy | Baukjen Classic Gold Buckle Belt* | Ace & Tate Heather Sunglasses in Latte* | A Weathered Penny Gold Wire Circle Hoops* | Merci Maman Large Hammered 10th Anniversary Necklace in Gold* | Merci Maman The Merci Maman Necklace* |  Kristen Elspeth Spear Ring in Gold* | Rotary Oxford Watch in Black* | Matthew Calvin Meteorite Ring in Rose Gold* | Merci Maman Pastille Bracelet in Gold*

So I’m a bit of a t-shirt and jeans girl a lot of the time. I own way too many of each, all in the search for the perfect one/pair. Lately I’ve been living in my Weekday Voyage jeans and these Mango Committed ones (which I bought in the sale at the end of the summer). I’ve been much more choosy about the denim I buy since I learnt what a huge impact both denim manufacturing and cotton growing has on the environment. Both the Weekday Voyage and Mango Committed pairs were made with organic cotton which uses far less water and no harmful chemical fertilisers, pesticides or insecticides. These are harmful not only to the land but also to the people that farm it.

Everyone should own a good white tee. If you ask me, it’s THE wardrobe essential of all essentials. A classic crew in a non-fitted cut is my preferred style, the looser fit just feels more comfortable to me. I recently discovered quite a new brand that have chosen to do a few basics really well, including a classic crew. Organic Basics are from Denmark where they take sustainability a lot more seriously than most countries. As the name suggests they use organic cotton in all their products which currently range from super soft undies to t-shirts. They’re a sustainable brand challenging the industry to improve its processes. They grow their cotton in Turkey, just outside Izmir. The farmers they work with have a long history of producing high quality Turkish long fibre. The long fibre is important because it gives the smooth texture to the finished garment.

Hotel Palacio de Villapanés, Seville

This post was created in collaboration with Hotel Palacio de Villapanés.

We flew into Seville in the early evening and as we drove into the city the light began to fade. The journey between the airport and our hotel (just 25 minutes) revealed little of Seville’s beauty. The light had all but gone by the time we drove down the quiet little cobbled street of Calle Santiago, where our hotel was located.

The Hotel Palacio de Villapanés is a former 18th Century palace in the Santa Cruz district of the city. The façade of the hotel was still impressive, with its huge dark wooden doors that open onto pink marble stairs and columns; at the top of which a set of ornate black iron gates open onto a magnificent courtyard. In the centre of the courtyard is a classical water fountain surrounded by lush green plants, the soothing sound of the water set the tone for our stay.

We arrived at the hotel just after another couple so we were asked to wait a few minutes in some pretty incredible peacock chairs. We were each given a lovely glass of refreshing Cava to drink whilst we waited. A couple of minutes later we were given a thorough overview of Seville’s old town by Pedro, a member of the hotel’s knowledgable concierge team. We were then shown to our room at the back of the hotel, on the top floor, overlooking a second courtyard. We had a pretty special room, it was simple, comfortable and luxurious with a private terrace and sun cabana. The hotel also has a large roof terrace with a plunge pool that’s open to all guests.

We dropped our bags in the room, changed quickly and headed off to find something to eat. I had been given a few recommendations by friends but as it was getting late and we’d been travelling for the best part of the day we asked the concierge to recommend somewhere good nearby. David (another member of the concierge team) suggested Catalina Casa de Comidas y Más, a restaurant with a simple style that served some wonderful fresh food. I got my octopus fix with a delicious dish of grilled octopus and aubergine, whilst Sophie opted for an amazing courgette salad with smoked sardines, Arzúa cheese and red pesto. We opted for an early night and headed back to the hotel for a nightcap, that’s if camomile tea counts? It was lovely sitting in the inner courtyard taking in our beautiful surroundings.

Our bed was huge with lovely squidgy pillows and two light-as-a-feather duvets (one each). We closed the shutters, pulled the curtains and slept insanely well, to the point where we both slept in late. When we did manage to rouse ourselves and opened the curtains and shutters we were greeted was a wonderful view over the rooftops of the surrounding buildings. One incredible shower with three different jet options and Molton Brown goodies later, I was ready for breakfast. The hotel provides a diverse buffet covering most tastes, as well as offering cooked food and a glass of pink sparkling wine, should you be in the mood.

We were a little gutted to discover the amazing wellness area too late in our stay (we were only there for two nights). The sauna and steam room would have gone down well, had we had the time.

Hotel Palacio de Villapanés, Calle Santiago, 31, 41003 Sevilla

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