Seville City Guide

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You must visit Seville. Old or young, rich or poor this is a city with something for everyone. We visited in early November, a little bit risky as the temperature is a unpredictable then but (as you can see from my photos) we were lucky, with warm weather. Had we been there a week earlier (the last week of September) we would have been hit with temperatures in the low 30s, unbelievable for September. If you’re looking for a late summer city break I think Seville is perfect.

I imagine that mid-summer is pretty busy in Seville, in November there were queues for all the big tourist spots but it was pleasant walking around the city, and we were able to get a table when we wanted, wherever we wanted. We were told that Seville has the largest ‘old town’ in Europe which is probably what makes it such a wonderful place to stroll around, it really is a beautiful city.

I arrived with a list as long as my arm of places to see and eat but this is a city best enjoyed when you go with the flow, trust me you won’t go wrong. We saw a lot of the famous sites as we wandered around, with the unexpected weather and incredible architecture, it was too lovely outside to hideaway inside. The Catedral is magnificent and huge (one of the largest Christian churches in Europe), we walked around it and then headed to the gardens of the Royal Alcázar, walking down narrow alleyways and through pretty courtyards on our way.

There are so many great places to eat and such good food in Seville. If you’re a foodie it’s worth spending the day wondering from one tapas restaurant to another, sharing a plate or two and a glass of local wine in each. It’s impossible to visit them all in a weekend but worth giving it a go. We had some help from Gerry from Pure Andalusia, an English ex-pat that has lived in the area for over a decade and is very knowledgable. She organises some amazing food tours throughout the region so if you’re looking for an expert look no further.

There is still so much for me to explore in Seville and I will definitely be returning before long. Here’s a list of my favourites from this trip.


Seville City Guide

ARTS & CULTURE

Catedral de Sevilla
It’s hard to miss this remarkable cathedral in the centre of Seville.
Av. de la Constitución, s/n, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

Royal Alcázar
A stunning Moorish palace, surrounded by lush gardens.
Patio de Banderas, s/n, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

SHOPPING

Rue 8
Stop in here for a  jewellery.
Pl. de S. Francisco, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

Castañer
The most famous espadrilles to come out of Spain.
Calle Sierpes, 38, 41001 Sevilla, Spain

Sombreros Maquedano
A small shop selling beautifully made traditional Spanish hats.
Calle Sierpes, 40, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

CAFÉS, BARS & RESTAURANTS

Mamarracha
An easy, laid-back place to enjoy a few plates of tapas.
Calle Hernando Colón, 1-3, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

No-Lugar
Great food in an amazing space with beautiful artwork that you can buy.
Calle Trajano, 16, 41002 Sevilla, Spain

Bolas
The most amazing ice cream, an essential stop on a warm evening stroll.
Cuesta del Rosario, 1, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

La Azotea
Some of the best tapas we had in Seville, and great wine too!
Calle Jesús del Gran Poder, 31, 41002 Sevilla, Spain

Mariatrifulca
Delicious food with an amazing view over the river and Puente de Triana.
Puente de Triana, esquina Plaza del Altozano, 41010 Sevilla, Spain

STAY

Corral del Rey
A luxury hotel, beautifully designed with a homely feel.
Calle Corral del Rey 12, 41004 Sevilla

Hotel Palacio de Villapanés
An elegantly restored palace that’s now a hotel.
Calle Santiago, 31, 41003 Sevilla

Corral del Rey, Seville

This post was created in collaboration with Corral del Rey.

Tucked away in Seville’s old Barrio Alfalfa quarter is the Calle Corral del Rey, a small cobbled street where the buildings almost touch. Split between two buildings (on either side of the street) is the Corral del Rey boutique hotel. From the street there’s little to give it away, just a large wooden door and a small sign in the wall. Once inside, it feels intimate and you feel protected by the building. Seville is by no means chaotic but there’s something uniquely relaxing and private about this restored 17th century casa palacio. With just 17 rooms it’s not a noisy, bustling hotel and, at times, we felt as though we had the place to ourselves.

We stayed in a room on the top floor and although not huge (it wasn’t easy squeezing in our two large suitcases), it was beautifully designed. There’s a homely style throughout the building that brings together comfort and luxury in equal measures. Our room had a small Juliet balcony that allowed us to look onto the Calle Corral del Rey below. Our bathroom was almost the same size as our bedroom, with stunning limestone used throughout.

The staff at the hotel are discreet but quick to respond to any request, and the room service is exceptional. One evening we chose to have a chilled night in, ordered food from room service and watched movies on Netflix. I ordered the pumpkin soup, cheese and ham croquetas, and an avocado and mozzarella salad. It arrived hot and was incredibly delicious. Breakfast at the hotel was equally delicious, with tasty eggs and acorn-fed ham, fresh fruit, breads, jams and croissants.

The hotel is located close to the Cathedral and a short walk from some incredible tapas bars, so it’s perfectly located for exploring the city. On the roof there is a little oasis; tables and chairs, sun-beds, plunge pool and an honesty bar to escape to when your feet are too to walk any more. There’s also a lovely lounge to relax in, across the street in the other building.

Corral del Rey, Calle Corral del Rey 12, 41004 Sevilla

Haçienda de San Rafael, Seville

This post was created in collaboration with Haçienda de San Rafael.

The Haçienda de San Rafael, just outside Seville, is (without question) my favourite of all the hotels I’ve stayed in this year. The property is surrounded by olive groves and fields that are full of cotton plants in the summer. The sandy lane that leads from the main road up to the hotel gives little away. The trees divide, opening up to reveal the haçienda, a stunning old white building that surrounds a pretty cobbled courtyard. An old well draws your eye in the centre and around the outside established pink and yellow bougainvillea. Each of the rooms is accessed from the courtyard and there’s a small dining area in front of each where you can sit and enjoy breakfast or lunch. It’s impossible not to enjoy either (or dinner for that matter); food here feels both indulgent and healthy. The Galician style octopus with potato that I had for lunch the day we arrived was tender and full of flavour; I can still conjure up its taste and texture now, weeks later.

If I was to use one word to describe what I felt at Haçienda de San Rafael it would be tranquility. I was incredibly relaxed whilst there and didn’t want to leave; two nights just wasn’t enough. It’s not one thing that makes it special but an amalgamation of so many small details that they get so right. There’s a very homely feel suffused into every room, thanks to the attention to detail of Cookie, the mother of the two brothers that now run the Haçienda de San Rafael. Cookie’s influence can be seen everywhere you look, she and her family are visible on the walls, in the pictures and paintings around the building. When you sit down in the living area you feel as though you’re in her home. I suppose on some level you are, although she doesn’t live there, the building has been in her family for many years.

The bedrooms are simply decorated with a few well-chosen decorative details. Ours had a double height bedroom area, with stairs leading up to a cosy lounge, and below it a large bathroom with a wonderful shower and a bath tub I happily whiled-away at least an hour in. I don’t know what they wash their towels with but I’ve never felt any so soft.

The gardens are perfect for a wander before dinner, we caught the sun setting over the olive grove which was incredibly beautiful. We then headed in for a gin and tonic from their honesty bar in the lounge, before sitting down to a delicious three-course dinner which included some perfectly cooked sea bass. A comforting hot chocolate back in the lounge after dinner and we were ready to sink into our bed for an incredible night’s sleep. We then got to do it all over again the next day!

The Haçienda de San Rafael is a 45 minute drive from Seville, we got a taxi to take us out there as we weren’t planning to go anywhere once we arrived but if you’re staying longer a car’s a very good idea as there’s plenty to explore in the area. I arranged to go on a 2 hour horse trek with Gerry from Pure Andalusia. The stables are halfway between the haçienda and Seville which made it a perfect stop on our way back into the city. Gerry took me through old olive groves, fields and eucalyptus woods on an incredibly well-behaved horse. It was a wonderful way to spend a couple of hours, even if I could still feel it in my legs three days later. It gave me a great feel for the area and I immediately understood what had drawn Gerry to move out there in the first place. If you’re looking for someone to take you hiking or would like to explore the vast food and drink specialities of the region, Gerry can organise it all.

Haçienda de San Rafael, Carretera Nacional IV (km 594), Las Cabezas de San Juan, 41730 Sevilla

Hotel Palacio de Villapanés, Seville

This post was created in collaboration with Hotel Palacio de Villapanés.

We flew into Seville in the early evening and as we drove into the city the light began to fade. The journey between the airport and our hotel (just 25 minutes) revealed little of Seville’s beauty. The light had all but gone by the time we drove down the quiet little cobbled street of Calle Santiago, where our hotel was located.

The Hotel Palacio de Villapanés is a former 18th Century palace in the Santa Cruz district of the city. The façade of the hotel was still impressive, with its huge dark wooden doors that open onto pink marble stairs and columns; at the top of which a set of ornate black iron gates open onto a magnificent courtyard. In the centre of the courtyard is a classical water fountain surrounded by lush green plants, the soothing sound of the water set the tone for our stay.

We arrived at the hotel just after another couple so we were asked to wait a few minutes in some pretty incredible peacock chairs. We were each given a lovely glass of refreshing Cava to drink whilst we waited. A couple of minutes later we were given a thorough overview of Seville’s old town by Pedro, a member of the hotel’s knowledgable concierge team. We were then shown to our room at the back of the hotel, on the top floor, overlooking a second courtyard. We had a pretty special room, it was simple, comfortable and luxurious with a private terrace and sun cabana. The hotel also has a large roof terrace with a plunge pool that’s open to all guests.

We dropped our bags in the room, changed quickly and headed off to find something to eat. I had been given a few recommendations by friends but as it was getting late and we’d been travelling for the best part of the day we asked the concierge to recommend somewhere good nearby. David (another member of the concierge team) suggested Catalina Casa de Comidas y Más, a restaurant with a simple style that served some wonderful fresh food. I got my octopus fix with a delicious dish of grilled octopus and aubergine, whilst Sophie opted for an amazing courgette salad with smoked sardines, Arzúa cheese and red pesto. We opted for an early night and headed back to the hotel for a nightcap, that’s if camomile tea counts? It was lovely sitting in the inner courtyard taking in our beautiful surroundings.

Our bed was huge with lovely squidgy pillows and two light-as-a-feather duvets (one each). We closed the shutters, pulled the curtains and slept insanely well, to the point where we both slept in late. When we did manage to rouse ourselves and opened the curtains and shutters we were greeted was a wonderful view over the rooftops of the surrounding buildings. One incredible shower with three different jet options and Molton Brown goodies later, I was ready for breakfast. The hotel provides a diverse buffet covering most tastes, as well as offering cooked food and a glass of pink sparkling wine, should you be in the mood.

We were a little gutted to discover the amazing wellness area too late in our stay (we were only there for two nights). The sauna and steam room would have gone down well, had we had the time.

Hotel Palacio de Villapanés, Calle Santiago, 31, 41003 Sevilla

Miró Hotel, Bilbao

This post was created in collaboration with the Miró Hotel.

We were really lucky to stay at the Miró Hotel whilst in Bilbao, it’s a lovely boutique hotel, opposite the Guggenheim. The hotel was designed by fashion designer Antonio Miró and interior designer Pilar Líbano and was the first boutique hotel in Bilbao.

The service was brilliant from the moment we arrived. Having arrived much earlier than I’d anticipated our room wasn’t ready for us, so we handed over our luggage for safe keeping and were handed complimentary tickets for the Guggenheim. This was such a nice touch and made my day as we already had plans to visit. On the ground floor of the hotel there’s a lounge area with free coffee and soft drinks, and lots of design books as well as photography by Marc Viaplana. We sat down there and started to plan our afternoon, the Guggenheim to see the amazing Richard Serra exhibition, followed by a wander and lunch before returning to the hotel to relax. We were booked into the hotel’s Aqua Wellness centre, a private room with a steam room, hydromassage bath and hydromassage shower, for an hour before we got ready to go out for the evening. This was the perfect way to relax into our break and I would recommend it if you’re planning a stay at the Miró Hotel.

Our room was decorated neutrally, creating a calming oasis to escape to for a couple of hours whilst we got ready. It even had a view of the Guggenheim. The bathroom was all slick black marble, very chic and just my style.

Breakfast was worth having at the hotel, ‘The Brown Bread Bag’ came with slices of brioche, German style bread, rustic white bread and a croissant, served with delicious raspberry jam and marmalade. All had been chosen from local producers for their quality. I also had a rather wonderful bowl of crunchy granola and yoghurt.

A Weekend In Bilbao

I’ve wanted to go to Bilbao and visit the Guggenheim since I was at school and first came across the work of architect Frank Gehry. I’ve waited a long time to see it but it was utterly worth it, the building is stunning, glinting silver in the bright light and pale gold when it’s cloudy. We stayed just opposite the Guggenheim in the Miró Hotel, the first boutique hotel in Bilbao (more on the hotel later).

Bilbao is the perfect destination for a weekend break, it’s easy to get to, small enough to walk around and has lots of amazing places to eat. We headed to the Plaza Nueva in the east of Bilbao for dinner, the square has many pinxtos bars where you’re hard pressed to spend 10€ on two glasses of wine and a selection of pinxtos. I recommend taking cash as we found many of the bars frowned on using bank cards for anything less than 10€. Our favourite was Victor Montes in the south-east corner of the square, the food was very good and the service came with a smile.

Whilst in Bilbao I had to check out a few shops, of course. Trimmer is a small boutique in the centre of town which sells a lot of my favourite brands including Masscob, Spain’s answer to Isabel Marant. They sell both men’s and women’s brands, as well as a good selection of magazines, beauty products and flowers. Next door they have a café too. Another wonderful store to visit is Narata, a contemporary design showroom that works with local artists and designers, as well as well-known brands like SCP, Muuto and Hay. The owners Aristide and Ainara are very welcoming and clearly passionate about the people they work with. It’s worth popping in just to see they’re collaborative project, ‘NarataWorks’; the leaning lamps above are from this project.

Accommodation
Miró Hotel

Restaurants
Panko | Victor Montes

Shops
Narata | Trimmer

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