The Nourishing Benefits of Face Oils

I use face oils throughout the year but I think they are essential during the colder months because of their deeply nourishing and protective properties. When skin is exposed to central heating and/or the wind it can lose the protective layer of oils and lipids it makes naturally, that form part of the skin’s barrier. (It’s important to note that some cleansers also strip away this layer of oils and lipids.) Without this protective layer the skin is open to water loss and can become dry and fragile. As we age, our skin naturally produces less of these oils and lipids. Face oils help to replenish them and protect the skin.

Face oils give skin a smoother texture, plumping it up and making it feel more supple and elastic. The outer layer of the epidermis, called the stratum corneum, is made up of corneocytes (mostly keratin) and an intercellular lipid matrix of ceramides, fatty acids and sterols. The lipid matrix forms a barrier to keep out bacteria and toxins, and prevents water loss. Face oils contain lots of fatty acids which support the lipid matrix; boosting the naturally occurring ceramides, fatty acids and sterols with additional plant-based ones; some also contain beneficial tocopherols (vitamin E), phenols, carotenes, squalane, vitamin A, vitamin C, folic acid, B vitamins, and flavonoids. The best oils are those that are extracted in a gentle manner, therefore retaining many of the beneficial compounds they contain; cold-pressing is one of the best known techniques.

Biossance Squalane + Vitamin C Rose Oil*
Caudalie VineActiv Overnight Detox Oil
AMLY Day Light*
Vintner’s Daughter Active Botanical Serum*

You might think that face oils are only suitable for those with dry or dehydrated skin but all skin types can benefit. Face oils have different properties depending on what they contain. Natural face oils contain fixed ( AKA carrier) oils, often combined with essential oils and/or oil-soluble herbal extracts. The combination and quantity of each fixed oil greatly affects the properties of the face oil. Different types of fatty acid within plant-based oils have different properties; some are moisturising, whilst others are considered non-drying, semi-drying or drying. When skin becomes oily or dry it is because it is out of balance.

Oils rich in linoleic acid are good for oily and acne-prone skin types. Oils containing high levels of linoleic acid include: argan oil, borage seed oil, black currant seed oil, cranberry seed oil, evening primrose oil, hemp seed oil, grape seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, raspberry seed oil, rosehip seed oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, and sweet almond oil.

Oils rich in oleic acid are good for dry or ageing skin. Oils containing high levels of oleic acid include: apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, moringa oil, olive oil, palm kernel oil, sea buckthorn oil, shea butter, and tamanu oil.

The size of the molecules in the oil, their molecular weight, affect how deeply they penetrate the skin. On the whole, the smaller the molecule size the deeper they go. These smaller molecules don’t clog pores but quickly sink into the skin.

Caudalie VineActiv Overnight Detox Oil
Votary Super Seed Facial Oil*
Henua Organics Miracle Vitamin Oil*, REN Rose O12 Moisture Defence Oil*, Balance Me Radiance Face Oil*

Essential oils and oil-soluble herbal extracts bring additional benefits to face oils. For example, Anthemis Nobilis (Roman Chamomile) flower oil is anti-inflammatory and antibacterial, good for calming acne. Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) leaf extract has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and antiseptic properties. Calendula Officinalis (Marigold) flower extract has anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Taraxacum Officinale (Dandelion) leaf extract is rich in antioxidants and prevents UVB damage. Some essential oils may cause irritation, if you have a reaction to a face oil it’s best to stop using it.

The main function of a face oil is to help the skin retain hydration (rather than provide it) and they are, therefore, best used in combination with a humectant (that draws in water) like hyaluronic acid. This is why it’s important to use face oils after water-based mists and serums (to help seal in their beneficial properties). Place a few drops of oil in the palm of your hand, gently rub your palms together to warm the oil, then pat and push the oil into your skin.

Henua Organics Miracle Vitamin Oil*
Balance Me Radiance Face Oil*
Seed to Skin The Midnight Miracle*

I suggest looking for natural, plant-based, cold-pressed oils; with a low comedogenic rating (meaning they don’t clog pores), especially if you suffer from acne. Cosmetic grade mineral oil has been found to be non-comedogenic but it is not sustainable since it is made from highly refined and processed petroleum. Dark glass bottles are best for storing oils as exposure to light and heat will damage the oil.

Nourishing Natural Face Oils

I have been using these ten natural plant-based face oils over the last couple of months. None have caused me any irritation and all of them have had a positive effect on my skin.

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  1. Super Seed Facial Oil, Votary*
    Key Ingredients:
    Grape seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, cranberry seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, chia seed oil, hemp seed oil, camellia seed oil, strawberry seed oil, black cumin seed oil, poppy seed oil, tomato seed oil, flax seed oil, pomegranate seed oil, blueberry seed oil, sunflower seed oil, borage seed oil, broccoli seed oil, melon seed oil, sour cherry seed oil, rosehip fruit oil, raspberry seed oil, marigold flower extract, passion fruit seed oil.
    Key Benefits:
    Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturising, regenerative.

  2. Active Botanical Serum, Vintner’s Daughter*
    Key Ingredients:
    Alfalfa leaf extract, avocado seed oil, bergamot peel oil, calendula flower extract, carrot seed oil, cypress leaf oil, dandelion leaf extract, evening primrose seed oil, frankincense resin, grape seed oil, hazelnut oil, jasmine flower extract, lavender flower oil, lemon peel oil, neroli flower oil, nettle leaf extract, rose flower oil, rosehip seed oil, rosemary leaf extract, sea buckthorn oil, tamanu oil, turmeric root oil.
    Key Benefits:
    Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturising, regenerative.

  3. Radiance Face Oil, Balance Me*
    Key Ingredients:
    Sweet almond oil, grape seed oil, kukui seed oil, jojoba seed oil, rosehip fruit oil, camelia seed oil, buriti fruit oil, moringa seed oil, yarrow leaf oil, benzoin resin, Roman chamomile flower oil, vitamin E, rosemary leaf oil, sunflower seed oil.
    Key Benefits:
    Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturising, regenerative.

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  1. Day Light Radiance Face Oil, AMLY*
    Key Ingredients:
    Abyssinian oil, meadowfoam oil, buriti fruit oil, prickly pear seed oil, raspberry seed oil, pomegranate oil, rose otto essential oil, jasmine essential oil, organic fireweed extract, ginger root extract.
    Key Benefits:
    Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturising, regenerative.

  2. Rose O12 Moisture Defense Oil, REN*
    Key Ingredients:
    Jojoba seed oil, rice bran oil, rice germ oil, camellia seed oil, soybean oil, macademia seed oil, dog rose fruit oil, Ximenia Americana seed oil, soybean lipid, sea buckthorn oil, cranberry seed oil, safflower oil / palm oil aminopropanediol esters, tocopherol, palmarose oil, geranium flower oil, damask rose flower oil, sunflower seed oil, rosemary leaf extract.
    Key Benefits:
    Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, firming, moisturising, regenerative, smoothing, soothing.

  3. Miracle Vitamin Oil, Henua Organics*
    Key Ingredients:
    Argan seed oil, jojoba seed oil, sunflower seed oil, sweet almond oil, rosehip seed oil, evening primrose oil, avocado oil, oat kernel oil, lingonberry seed oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, rosemary leaf extract, tocopherol.
    Key Benefits:
    Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturising, reduces pigmentation, regenerative.

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  1. Face Oil Line F, Susanne Kaufmann*
    Key Ingredients:
    Broccoli seed oil, sunflower seed oil, argan oil, apricot kernel oil, tocopheryl, corn germ oil, purple viper’s-bugloss seed oil, sesame seed oil, tocopherol, macadamia seed oil, olive fruit oil, pomegranate seed oil, balloon vine extract, carrot root extract.
    Key Benefits:

    Antioxidant, firming, moisturising, regenerative, smoothing.

  2. Squalane + Vitamin C Rose Oil, Biossance*
    Key Ingredients:
    Squalane, damask rose flower extract, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, geraniol.
    Key Benefits:
    Antioxidant, brightening, firming, moisturising, regenerative, smoothing.

  3. The Midnight Miracle, Seed to Skin*
    Key Ingredients:
    Rambling rose seed oil, dog rose fruit oil, sweet-brier seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, squalane, jojoba oil/macadamia seed oil esters, sodium hyaluronate, glucomannan, sandalwood oil, squalene, damask rose flower extract, trihydroxystearin ethylhexyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate, phytosterols, lavender oil, geranium flower oil, tocopherol.
    Key Benefits:
    Antioxidant, moisturising, regenerative, smoothing.

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  1. Vine[Activ] Overnight Detox Oil, Caudalíe
    Key Ingredients:
    Grape seed oil, sweet almond oil, dog rose fruit oil, bitter orange leaf/twig oil, carrot seed oil, sandalwood oil, sunflower oil, bitter orange flower oil, lavender oil, rosemary leaf extract, neroli essential oil, musk rose oil.
    Key Benefits:
    Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, moisturising, regenerative.

Further Reading
Skin Penetration Enhancement by Natural Oils for Dihydroquercetin Delivery‘, Molecules – Sep 22nd, 2017

Safe Sun Protection, Every Day

Sun protection is something we should all use daily, rain or shine. I used to think it was only needed on bright, sunny days but UVA and some UVB rays travel through clouds and cause ageing (UVA) and sunburn (UVB) no matter what the weather. UVA rays can also travel through glass.

I’ve been looking into options that fit seamlessly into my routine. In the past I’ve found that some sunscreens have left me feeling as though my make-up is sliding off my face, before I’ve even left the house. What I want from a sun care product is to not notice it’s there but know it’s keeping my skin protected.

I’m cautious about what I put on my skin as it gets absorbed into the body. I’ve spent time looking into what ingredients are best avoided. I mentioned a couple (oxybenzone and octinoxate) in a previous post, Clean Suncreens. Also, oxybenzone, octinoxate, butylparaben and 4-methylbenzylidene camphor are all known to cause damage and bleaching to coral reefs. In my opinion, it’s best to look for natural, mineral-based, physical sun protection; products that use either titanium dioxide or zinc oxide in a non-nano molecule form. This is because they’re considered safer for humans and safer for the environment. Physical sun protection sits on the skin rather than being absorbed by it, it forms a physical barrier; though it is still possible that other ingredients within the product may be absorbed.

I’ve been trying out a few products that are new to me, to get a feel for what works well within my current skincare routine, with my fairly sensitive skin. I layer quite a few products these days and don’t find it problematic. I know some people may struggle with layering but it’s all about the products you use and the order in which you apply them (I’ll save that for another post). I should add that, currently, I wear very little make-up and prefer a fresh dewy look.

Sun protection should be an important layer in your routine, it’s not one to skip.

Ilia Super Serum Skin Tint SPF 30

I’ve been using Ilia Super Serum Skin Tint SPF 30 since they discontinued another great product I used for a year or two, previously (Sheer Vivid Tinted Moisturizer). The new serum is a bit of a wonder product; combining skincare, make-up and sun protection in one. It’s perfect for lazy days or people who prefer to use as few products as possible. It has a sheer finish, evening out skin tone but doesn’t completely cover up dark spots. It has a fluid texture, more akin to a serum or face oil, and leaves the skin well moisturised and incredibly dewy. It isn’t a product I would use just before a photo shoot, simply because it leaves the skin quite shiny. It’s a very easy everyday product that saves time.

Ilia are careful about the ingredients they use, they believe “that not every natural ingredient is good for the skin, nor is every synthetic bad. Clean beauty is where those two collide—with conscious, carefully-selected ingredients, and no compromises”.

The key ingredients in Ilia Super Serum Skin Tint SPF 30 are niacinamide (vitamin B3), plant-based squalane and hyaluronic acid. The natural sun protection comes from zinc oxide and gives protection from UVA, UVB and UVC rays, blue light and infrared light.

Seed to Skin The Eclipse SPF 30

For something a little simpler but no less effective, I think Seed to Skin The Eclipse SPF 30* is a fantastic sun protection product, which also guards against environmental pollution. You apply a few drops to your face and neck, after your regular moisturiser. It feels like a thin face oil and leaves the skin very dewy. It has a slightly pale caste when you apply it, which quickly disappears.

“Seed to Skin goes beyond the trend of purely natural, combining the power of nature’s curative properties with the results-driven efficiency of advanced science.”

The ingredients in Seed to Skin The Eclipse are 100% natural. Sun protection comes from titanium dioxide (another physical sunscreen agent) which protects against UVA and UVB rays, as well as environmental pollution.

Balance Me Natural Protection Moisturiser SPF 25

Balance Me Natural Protection Moisturiser SPF 25 is a moisturiser with the added benefit of an SPF. I like a multi-functional product due to its ease of use and because it saves time; with this product it’s also much harder for you to forget or skip using an SPF. It’s a fairly thick cream that goes on easily. It leaves a slight white cast that disappears within a few minutes of application. If you’re applying make-up, I would give it 10 minutes to settle fully.

Balance Me “genuinely fail to see why people would choose synthetic over natural when clinically proven bio-active ingredients exist and work”.

Balance Me Natural Protection Moisturiser SPF 25 is a vegan-friendly product. The key ingredients are hyaluronic acid and rose hip. Hyaluronic acid is deeply moisturising and replenishes the hyaluronic acid that’s found naturally in the skin. It works by drawing in moisture and therefore keeps the skin hydrated and plump. Rose hip is rich in naturally occurring vitamin A, an excellent anti-ageing ingredient. Sun protection comes from titanium dioxide, protecting against UVA and UVB rays.

Pai British Summer Time: Sensitive Sunscreen SPF 30

Pai British Summer Time: Sensitive Sunscreen SPF 30* (previously Hello Sunshine) is the one I would recommend for those with particularly sensitive skin. Pai’s founder, Sarah, struggled so much with other skincare products and created the brand because she couldn’t find any that didn’t irritate her skin. It smells incredibly fresh and a little goes a long way. The pale yellow cream quickly vanishes to leave an invisible, non-shiny finish.

Pai believe “the highest quality organic ingredients create the best performing products – it’s a simple equation”.

Pai British Summer Time: Sensitive Sunscreen SPF 30 is 99% natural and vegan-friendly. Key ingredients include cotton extract and vitamin E. Cotton extract (AKA gossypium herbaceum) is an active botanical that helps protect skin from oxidative damage caused by UVA, UVB, infrared and visible radiation. Vitamin E is an antioxidant that offers significant protection against UVB rays. Sun protection comes from zinc oxide and protects against UVA and UVB rays, blue light and infrared light.

NUORI Mineral Defence Sunscreen SPF 30

If you’re looking for something incredibly fresh, there’s NUORI Mineral Defence Sunscreen SPF 30*. All skincare products lose their efficacy over time, NUORI’s approach is to offer the freshest skincare, made in small batches, to be used as soon as you receive them.

I particularly love the texture of this product, it’s quite thick but smoothes over the skin so easily and doesn’t leave any white residue. It has a slightly pink colour which may be why it’s less visible than some of the others. Along with PAI’s, this leaves the most natural finish.

“All NUORI formulas are developed to deliver visible results using only the best natural ingredients and the latest generation of bioengineered actives.”

NUORI Mineral Defence Sunscreen SPF 30 is an all-natural formula. Its key ingredients are French maritime pine extract and sunflower seed oil. French maritime pine extract is one of those miracle ingredients that has multiple health benefits that include antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anticarcinogenic properties. Sunflower seed oil is a great source of omega-6 fatty acids, great for promoting a healthy skin barrier, reducing inflammation and increasing cell renewal. Sun protection comes from zinc oxide and gives protection from UVA and UVB rays.

NUORI Sun Repair Serum* isn’t a sun protection product but as it works so well alongside their Mineral Defence Sunscreen to reduce skin damage, I’ve included it.

This serum is so refreshing, you can feel it working hard to replenish lost moisture, as soon as you apply it. Natural hyaluronic acid and carbohydrate complex have water-binding properties which help draw moisture into the skin and keep it moisturised. The skin’s natural response when damaged by the sun is inflammation; this serum contains plant-based, bio-fermented sorbitol complex and chamomile flower to help reduce inflammation and irritation, quickly helping to calm the skin. There’s also liquorice root extract and vitamins C and E to help neutralise damaging free radicals, with their potent doses of antioxidants.

REN Clean Screen Mineral SPF 30

If shine is something you try to avoid then REN Clean Screen Mineral SPF 30*, with its mattifying properties would be a good one for you. It does leave skin a touch paler but if you’re applying make-up afterwards then you won’t notice.

REN say, “‘Clean’ is at the heart of all we do… But what does it mean? For us it’s giving you visible results from skincare that isn’t full of shady ingredients. Ingredients that work with your skin, without causing irritation. Ingredients your skin would choose, from sustainable sources and sustainably packaged – cause great skincare shouldn’t cost the earth, right?”

REN Clean Screen Mineral SPF 30 has a naturally-derived formula, that’s vegan-friendly. Key ingredients are yellow passion fruit seed extract (a powerful antioxidant that helps protect the skin from pollution and free radical damage) and rice starch (which absorbs excess oil whilst soothing any irritation). Sun protection comes from zinc oxide and gives protection from UVA and UVB rays, and blue light.

Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are currently considered to be elite sunscreens. They both give good broad spectrum coverage (meaning they protect against UVA, UVB and UVC rays) and are highly stable (unlike avobenzone AKA butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, an incredible UVA sunscreen agent that’s, sadly, not photostable and degrades in the sunlight). The downside is that they are hard to spread on the skin but when combined with the right ingredients that’s not usually a problem with the end product.

Please bear in mind that, no matter which product you choose to use, you will need to reapply it throughout the day to a maintain a good level of protection from the sun’s rays.

Organic & Natural Skincare Brands On A Budget

I was originally going to call this post ‘Affordable Organic & Natural Skincare Brands’ but affordability is personal, not dependent on the size of your income but how you choose to spend it. My approach to affordable skincare is to find products that are effective for my dry, sensitive skin; that don’t expose it to unnecessary chemicals; and I wouldn’t consider buying simply as a treat.

I know that some of the beauty products I write about could be considered a little on the expensive side. I don’t believe cost is a sign of a product’s efficacy. There are a lot of overpriced brands on the market that seriously under-deliver. When I feature a more expensive product, it’s because I believe it’s worth spending money on and because it’s a product that works for me. I believe it’s important to invest in my skin.

There are a lot of brands that could easily charge a lot more for their brilliant products. There are some great natural and organic skincare brands that suit most budgets. In this post, I’m sharing a few of the most reliable and affordable brands I use.


REN Clean Skincare

REN Clean Skincare is probably the skincare brand I’ve used for the longest, of all the brands I recommend in this post. I can always rely on their products to be efficacious, whilst also being gentle on my skin (all their formulas are pH balanced). It was the gentleness of their products that first attracted me. When I was at university I became aware that my skin was becoming quite sensitive, probably as a result of my less than healthy lifestyle. It was at this time, I discovered REN.

Their ingredients come from sustainable sources, and are chosen for their effectiveness and because they don’t cause irritation to the skin; like the blackcurrant seed oil (an oil rich in Omega 3) in their Evercalm Gentle Cleansing Milk, and the wheatgerm (which increases skin firmness) in their V-Cense Revitalising Night Cream. Both of which I’ve used for years.

I also love REN for their positive approach to social projects. Their ‘Clean to Skin, Clean to Planet’ initiative is part of their pledge to become zero waste by 2021. Campaigns in partnership with Surfers Against Sewage and Surfrider Foundation have seen groups around the UK and USA cleaning up our beaches. They currently use post-consumer-recycled plastic for their tubes, all designed for circular recycling; and they teamed up with TerraCycle to create their ocean plastic bottles. Their next step, refillable bottles in co-ordination with TerraCycle’s Loop program.

REN products are all cruelty-free; some are also vegan. All products are manufactured in the UK.

If you sign up to their newsletter you’ll receive 15% off your first order.


PAI Skincare

It was Julia Rebaudo from Stylonylon that introduced me to PAI Skincare, back in 2017. She had visited their factory in London (where they make all their products) and, knowing we both share a love of natural skincare, suggested I try them.

I met up with their PR and over a lovely lunch she told me about founder, Sarah Brown’s, struggle to find products that were gentle enough for her irritated, hyper-sensitive and acne-prone skin. Finding nothing that worked for her, she created her own.

Sarah’s approach is to use natural and organic ingredients in their products, reducing the use of chemicals that may cause irritation. They don’t use any controversial chemicals, parabens or phthalates. In order to qualify as natural, a minimum of 98% of the ingredients come from nature; certified to a Soil Association COSMOS Natural standard. Where possible they use organic ingredients, which they (and I) believe are better for our health and the environment. Any non-natural ingredients they use in their products are those necessary to keep it fresh or make it work. They meet strict standards, green chemistry principles and don’t exceed 2% of the product’s ingredients.

PAI products are so gentle, they’ve never caused my skin any irritation, but have also given me good results. When my pores are blocked (after cleansing), I use their Kukui & Jojoba Bead Skin Brightening Exfoliator. The natural and bio-degradable jojoba beads remove dead skin cells. I then follow this with their Copaiba Deep Cleanse AHA Mask to remove congestion. My skin is left feeling super clean but not tight or uncomfortable.

PAI take their social responsibilities seriously. Sarah’s mentorship program educates young girls in London, in entrepreneurship and the career opportunities in manufacturing. In addition, they work closely with a few cancer centres, offering cancer sufferers skincare advice throughout their treatment and after.

PAI have taken measures to reduce their environmental impact by using glass wherever possible for product packaging, as well as introducing a recyclable bioplastic tube derived from sustainably sourced Sugarcane. They use only FSC-certified paper and card, and stopped using laminated boxes back in 2015.

PAI products are all cruelty-free and vegan. All products are manufactured in the UK.

If you sign up to their newsletter you’ll receive 10% off your first order.


Balance Me

Just like myself, Rebecca and Clare Hopkins are on a mission to slow down and take care of themselves. Like a lot of us, they found the fast pace of twenty-first century life stressful and realised that it was taking its toll on their health and skin. Both sisters had developed incredibly sensitive, red skin and were suffering from hormonal breakouts. They decided to create Balance Me, skincare products that enable us all to take a little time for self-care each day. They create natural products from sustainable, renewable ingredients that are kind to your skin and the earth. Some products do contain non-natural ingredients but these are carefully selected and tested to ensure they are safe for your skin.

As with the other brands I’ve mentioned, Balance Me’s products are gentle but effective. Their Tri-Molecular Hyaluronic Serum is one of the most effective and affordable hyaluronic serums I’ve come across. It contains three different molecule sizes that act on different layers of the epidermis, giving skin a thorough moisture boost. I use it morning and night.

Balance Me are making every effort to reduce the environmental impact of their packaging. They use clear and white glass for most of their bottles, since it is the most widely and infinitely recycled material available. However, being heavier than some materials, it does have an impact on carbon emissions. For safety, balms and oils are packaged in plastic, they use 50% post-consumer recycled plastic for them. All their boxes are made with FSC-certified card and if you order from them directly your package will be packed with corn chips, a biodegradable padding material that you can dissolve in water or put on your compost heap. They’re looking into refillables for the future.

Balance Me products are all cruelty-free; some are also vegan. All products are manufactured in the UK.

If you sign up to their newsletter you’ll receive 15% off your first order.

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