Tag: face oils

I use face oils throughout the year but I think they are essential during the colder months because of their deeply nourishing and protective properties. When skin is exposed to central heating and/or the wind it can lose the protective layer of oils and lipids it makes naturally, that form part of the skin’s barrier. (It’s important to note that some cleansers also strip away this layer of oils and lipids.) Without this protective layer the skin is open to water loss and can become dry and fragile. As we age, our skin naturally produces less of these oils and lipids. Face oils help to replenish them and protect the skin.

Face oils give skin a smoother texture, plumping it up and making it feel more supple and elastic. The outer layer of the epidermis, called the stratum corneum, is made up of corneocytes (mostly keratin) and an intercellular lipid matrix of ceramides, fatty acids and sterols. The lipid matrix forms a barrier to keep out bacteria and toxins, and prevents water loss. Face oils contain lots of fatty acids which support the lipid matrix; boosting the naturally occurring ceramides, fatty acids and sterols with additional plant-based ones; some also contain beneficial tocopherols (vitamin E), phenols, carotenes, squalane, vitamin A, vitamin C, folic acid, B vitamins, and flavonoids. The best oils are those that are extracted in a gentle manner, therefore retaining many of the beneficial compounds they contain; cold-pressing is one of the best known techniques.

You might think that face oils are only suitable for those with dry or dehydrated skin but all skin types can benefit. Face oils have different properties depending on what they contain. Natural face oils contain fixed ( AKA carrier) oils, often combined with essential oils and/or oil-soluble herbal extracts. The combination and quantity of each fixed oil greatly affects the properties of the face oil. Different types of fatty acid within plant-based oils have different properties; some are moisturising, whilst others are considered non-drying, semi-drying or drying. When skin becomes oily or dry it is because it is out of balance.

Oils rich in linoleic acid are good for oily and acne-prone skin types. Oils containing high levels of linoleic acid include: argan oil, borage seed oil, black currant seed oil, cranberry seed oil, evening primrose oil, hemp seed oil, grape seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, raspberry seed oil, rosehip seed oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, and sweet almond oil.

Oils rich in oleic acid are good for dry or ageing skin. Oils containing high levels of oleic acid include: apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, moringa oil, olive oil, palm kernel oil, sea buckthorn oil, shea butter, and tamanu oil.

The size of the molecules in the oil, their molecular weight, affect how deeply they penetrate the skin. On the whole, the smaller the molecule size the deeper they go. These smaller molecules don’t clog pores but quickly sink into the skin.

Essential oils and oil-soluble herbal extracts bring additional benefits to face oils. For example, Anthemis Nobilis (Roman Chamomile) flower oil is anti-inflammatory and antibacterial, good for calming acne. Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) leaf extract has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and antiseptic properties. Calendula Officinalis (Marigold) flower extract has anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Taraxacum Officinale (Dandelion) leaf extract is rich in antioxidants and prevents UVB damage. Some essential oils may cause irritation, if you have a reaction to a face oil it’s best to stop using it.

The main function of a face oil is to help the skin retain hydration (rather than provide it) and they are, therefore, best used in combination with a humectant (that draws in water) like hyaluronic acid. This is why it’s important to use face oils after water-based mists and serums (to help seal in their beneficial properties). Place a few drops of oil in the palm of your hand, gently rub your palms together to warm the oil, then pat and push the oil into your skin.

I suggest looking for natural, plant-based, cold-pressed oils; with a low comedogenic rating (meaning they don’t clog pores), especially if you suffer from acne. Cosmetic grade mineral oil has been found to be non-comedogenic but it is not sustainable since it is made from highly refined and processed petroleum. Dark glass bottles are best for storing oils as exposure to light and heat will damage the oil.

Nourishing Natural Face Oils

I have been using these ten natural plant-based face oils over the last couple of months. None have caused me any irritation and all of them have had a positive effect on my skin.

1. Super Seed Facial Oil, Votary*
   Key Ingredients:
   Grape seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, cranberry seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, chia seed oil, hemp seed oil, camellia seed oil, strawberry seed oil, black cumin seed oil, poppy seed oil, tomato seed oil, flax seed oil, pomegranate seed oil, blueberry seed oil, sunflower seed oil, borage seed oil, broccoli seed oil, melon seed oil, sour cherry seed oil, rosehip fruit oil, raspberry seed oil, marigold flower extract, passion fruit seed oil.
   Key Benefits:
   Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturising, regenerative.
   
   
2. Active Botanical Serum, Vintner’s Daughter*
   Key Ingredients:
   Alfalfa leaf extract, avocado seed oil, bergamot peel oil, calendula flower extract, carrot seed oil, cypress leaf oil, dandelion leaf extract, evening primrose seed oil, frankincense resin, grape seed oil, hazelnut oil, jasmine flower extract, lavender flower oil, lemon peel oil, neroli flower oil, nettle leaf extract, rose flower oil, rosehip seed oil, rosemary leaf extract, sea buckthorn oil, tamanu oil, turmeric root oil.
   Key Benefits:
   Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturising, regenerative.
   
   
3. Radiance Face Oil, Balance Me*
   Key Ingredients:
   Sweet almond oil, grape seed oil, kukui seed oil, jojoba seed oil, rosehip fruit oil, camelia seed oil, buriti fruit oil, moringa seed oil, yarrow leaf oil, benzoin resin, Roman chamomile flower oil, vitamin E, rosemary leaf oil, sunflower seed oil.
   Key Benefits:
   Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturising, regenerative.

4. Day Light Radiance Face Oil, AMLY*
   Key Ingredients:
   Abyssinian oil, meadowfoam oil, buriti fruit oil, prickly pear seed oil, raspberry seed oil, pomegranate oil, rose otto essential oil, jasmine essential oil, organic fireweed extract, ginger root extract.
   Key Benefits:
   Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturising, regenerative.
   
   
5. Rose O¹² Moisture Defense Oil, REN*
   Key Ingredients:
   Jojoba seed oil, rice bran oil, rice germ oil, camellia seed oil, soybean oil, macademia seed oil, dog rose fruit oil, Ximenia Americana seed oil, soybean lipid, sea buckthorn oil, cranberry seed oil, safflower oil / palm oil aminopropanediol esters, tocopherol, palmarose oil, geranium flower oil, damask rose flower oil, sunflower seed oil, rosemary leaf extract.
   Key Benefits:
   Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, firming, moisturising, regenerative, smoothing, soothing.
   
   
6. Miracle Vitamin Oil, Henua Organics*
   Key Ingredients:
   Argan seed oil, jojoba seed oil, sunflower seed oil, sweet almond oil, rosehip seed oil, evening primrose oil, avocado oil, oat kernel oil, lingonberry seed oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, rosemary leaf extract, tocopherol.
   Key Benefits:
   Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturising, reduces pigmentation, regenerative.

7. Face Oil Line F, Susanne Kaufmann*
   Key Ingredients:
   Broccoli seed oil, sunflower seed oil, argan oil, apricot kernel oil, tocopheryl, corn germ oil, purple viper’s-bugloss seed oil, sesame seed oil, tocopherol, macadamia seed oil, olive fruit oil, pomegranate seed oil, balloon vine extract, carrot root extract.
   Key Benefits:
   Antioxidant, firming, moisturising, regenerative, smoothing.
   
   
8. Squalane + Vitamin C Rose Oil, Biossance*
   Key Ingredients:
   Squalane, damask rose flower extract, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, geraniol.
   Key Benefits:
   Antioxidant, brightening, firming, moisturising, regenerative, smoothing.
   
   
9. The Midnight Miracle, Seed to Skin*
   Key Ingredients:
   Rambling rose seed oil, dog rose fruit oil, sweet-brier seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, squalane, jojoba oil/macadamia seed oil esters, sodium hyaluronate, glucomannan, sandalwood oil, squalene, damask rose flower extract, trihydroxystearin ethylhexyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate, phytosterols, lavender oil, geranium flower oil, tocopherol.
   Key Benefits:
   Antioxidant, moisturising, regenerative, smoothing.

10. Vine[Activ] Overnight Detox Oil, Caudalíe
    Key Ingredients:
    Grape seed oil, sweet almond oil, dog rose fruit oil, bitter orange leaf/twig oil, carrot seed oil, sandalwood oil, sunflower oil, bitter orange flower oil, lavender oil, rosemary leaf extract, neroli essential oil, musk rose oil.
    Key Benefits:
    Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, moisturising, regenerative.

Further Reading
‘Skin Penetration Enhancement by Natural Oils for Dihydroquercetin Delivery‘, Molecules – Sep 22nd, 2017