Tag: skincare

The Nourishing Benefits of Face Oils

I use face oils throughout the year but I think they are essential during the colder months because of their deeply nourishing and protective properties. When skin is exposed to central heating and/or the wind it can lose the protective layer of oils and lipids it makes naturally, that form part of the skin’s barrier. (It’s important to note that some cleansers also strip away this layer of oils and lipids.) Without this protective layer the skin is open to water loss and can become dry and fragile. As we age, our skin naturally produces less of these oils and lipids. Face oils help to replenish them and protect the skin.

Face oils give skin a smoother texture, plumping it up and making it feel more supple and elastic. The outer layer of the epidermis, called the stratum corneum, is made up of corneocytes (mostly keratin) and an intercellular lipid matrix of ceramides, fatty acids and sterols. The lipid matrix forms a barrier to keep out bacteria and toxins, and prevents water loss. Face oils contain lots of fatty acids which support the lipid matrix; boosting the naturally occurring ceramides, fatty acids and sterols with additional plant-based ones; some also contain beneficial tocopherols (vitamin E), phenols, carotenes, squalane, vitamin A, vitamin C, folic acid, B vitamins, and flavonoids. The best oils are those that are extracted in a gentle manner, therefore retaining many of the beneficial compounds they contain; cold-pressing is one of the best known techniques.

Biossance Squalane + Vitamin C Rose Oil*
Caudalie VineActiv Overnight Detox Oil
AMLY Day Light*
Vintner’s Daughter Active Botanical Serum*

You might think that face oils are only suitable for those with dry or dehydrated skin but all skin types can benefit. Face oils have different properties depending on what they contain. Natural face oils contain fixed ( AKA carrier) oils, often combined with essential oils and/or oil-soluble herbal extracts. The combination and quantity of each fixed oil greatly affects the properties of the face oil. Different types of fatty acid within plant-based oils have different properties; some are moisturising, whilst others are considered non-drying, semi-drying or drying. When skin becomes oily or dry it is because it is out of balance.

Oils rich in linoleic acid are good for oily and acne-prone skin types. Oils containing high levels of linoleic acid include: argan oil, borage seed oil, black currant seed oil, cranberry seed oil, evening primrose oil, hemp seed oil, grape seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, raspberry seed oil, rosehip seed oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, and sweet almond oil.

Oils rich in oleic acid are good for dry or ageing skin. Oils containing high levels of oleic acid include: apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, moringa oil, olive oil, palm kernel oil, sea buckthorn oil, shea butter, and tamanu oil.

The size of the molecules in the oil, their molecular weight, affect how deeply they penetrate the skin. On the whole, the smaller the molecule size the deeper they go. These smaller molecules don’t clog pores but quickly sink into the skin.

Caudalie VineActiv Overnight Detox Oil
Votary Super Seed Facial Oil*
Henua Organics Miracle Vitamin Oil*, REN Rose O12 Moisture Defence Oil*, Balance Me Radiance Face Oil*

Essential oils and oil-soluble herbal extracts bring additional benefits to face oils. For example, Anthemis Nobilis (Roman Chamomile) flower oil is anti-inflammatory and antibacterial, good for calming acne. Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) leaf extract has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and antiseptic properties. Calendula Officinalis (Marigold) flower extract has anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Taraxacum Officinale (Dandelion) leaf extract is rich in antioxidants and prevents UVB damage. Some essential oils may cause irritation, if you have a reaction to a face oil it’s best to stop using it.

The main function of a face oil is to help the skin retain hydration (rather than provide it) and they are, therefore, best used in combination with a humectant (that draws in water) like hyaluronic acid. This is why it’s important to use face oils after water-based mists and serums (to help seal in their beneficial properties). Place a few drops of oil in the palm of your hand, gently rub your palms together to warm the oil, then pat and push the oil into your skin.

Henua Organics Miracle Vitamin Oil*
Balance Me Radiance Face Oil*
Seed to Skin The Midnight Miracle*

I suggest looking for natural, plant-based, cold-pressed oils; with a low comedogenic rating (meaning they don’t clog pores), especially if you suffer from acne. Cosmetic grade mineral oil has been found to be non-comedogenic but it is not sustainable since it is made from highly refined and processed petroleum. Dark glass bottles are best for storing oils as exposure to light and heat will damage the oil.

Nourishing Natural Face Oils

I have been using these ten natural plant-based face oils over the last couple of months. None have caused me any irritation and all of them have had a positive effect on my skin.

1.

2.

3.

  1. Super Seed Facial Oil, Votary*
    Key Ingredients:
    Grape seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, cranberry seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, chia seed oil, hemp seed oil, camellia seed oil, strawberry seed oil, black cumin seed oil, poppy seed oil, tomato seed oil, flax seed oil, pomegranate seed oil, blueberry seed oil, sunflower seed oil, borage seed oil, broccoli seed oil, melon seed oil, sour cherry seed oil, rosehip fruit oil, raspberry seed oil, marigold flower extract, passion fruit seed oil.
    Key Benefits:
    Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturising, regenerative.

  2. Active Botanical Serum, Vintner’s Daughter*
    Key Ingredients:
    Alfalfa leaf extract, avocado seed oil, bergamot peel oil, calendula flower extract, carrot seed oil, cypress leaf oil, dandelion leaf extract, evening primrose seed oil, frankincense resin, grape seed oil, hazelnut oil, jasmine flower extract, lavender flower oil, lemon peel oil, neroli flower oil, nettle leaf extract, rose flower oil, rosehip seed oil, rosemary leaf extract, sea buckthorn oil, tamanu oil, turmeric root oil.
    Key Benefits:
    Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturising, regenerative.

  3. Radiance Face Oil, Balance Me*
    Key Ingredients:
    Sweet almond oil, grape seed oil, kukui seed oil, jojoba seed oil, rosehip fruit oil, camelia seed oil, buriti fruit oil, moringa seed oil, yarrow leaf oil, benzoin resin, Roman chamomile flower oil, vitamin E, rosemary leaf oil, sunflower seed oil.
    Key Benefits:
    Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturising, regenerative.

4.

5.

6.

  1. Day Light Radiance Face Oil, AMLY*
    Key Ingredients:
    Abyssinian oil, meadowfoam oil, buriti fruit oil, prickly pear seed oil, raspberry seed oil, pomegranate oil, rose otto essential oil, jasmine essential oil, organic fireweed extract, ginger root extract.
    Key Benefits:
    Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturising, regenerative.

  2. Rose O12 Moisture Defense Oil, REN*
    Key Ingredients:
    Jojoba seed oil, rice bran oil, rice germ oil, camellia seed oil, soybean oil, macademia seed oil, dog rose fruit oil, Ximenia Americana seed oil, soybean lipid, sea buckthorn oil, cranberry seed oil, safflower oil / palm oil aminopropanediol esters, tocopherol, palmarose oil, geranium flower oil, damask rose flower oil, sunflower seed oil, rosemary leaf extract.
    Key Benefits:
    Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, firming, moisturising, regenerative, smoothing, soothing.

  3. Miracle Vitamin Oil, Henua Organics*
    Key Ingredients:
    Argan seed oil, jojoba seed oil, sunflower seed oil, sweet almond oil, rosehip seed oil, evening primrose oil, avocado oil, oat kernel oil, lingonberry seed oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, rosemary leaf extract, tocopherol.
    Key Benefits:
    Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturising, reduces pigmentation, regenerative.

7.

8.

9.

  1. Face Oil Line F, Susanne Kaufmann*
    Key Ingredients:
    Broccoli seed oil, sunflower seed oil, argan oil, apricot kernel oil, tocopheryl, corn germ oil, purple viper’s-bugloss seed oil, sesame seed oil, tocopherol, macadamia seed oil, olive fruit oil, pomegranate seed oil, balloon vine extract, carrot root extract.
    Key Benefits:
    Antioxidant, firming, moisturising, regenerative, smoothing.

  2. Squalane + Vitamin C Rose Oil, Biossance*
    Key Ingredients:
    Squalane, damask rose flower extract, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, geraniol.
    Key Benefits:
    Antioxidant, brightening, firming, moisturising, regenerative, smoothing.

  3. The Midnight Miracle, Seed to Skin*
    Key Ingredients:
    Rambling rose seed oil, dog rose fruit oil, sweet-brier seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, squalane, jojoba oil/macadamia seed oil esters, sodium hyaluronate, glucomannan, sandalwood oil, squalene, damask rose flower extract, trihydroxystearin ethylhexyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate, phytosterols, lavender oil, geranium flower oil, tocopherol.
    Key Benefits:
    Antioxidant, moisturising, regenerative, smoothing.

10.

  1. Vine[Activ] Overnight Detox Oil, Caudalíe
    Key Ingredients:
    Grape seed oil, sweet almond oil, dog rose fruit oil, bitter orange leaf/twig oil, carrot seed oil, sandalwood oil, sunflower oil, bitter orange flower oil, lavender oil, rosemary leaf extract, neroli essential oil, musk rose oil.
    Key Benefits:
    Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, moisturising, regenerative.

Further Reading
‘Skin Penetration Enhancement by Natural Oils for Dihydroquercetin Delivery‘, Molecules – Sep 22nd, 2017

Organic & Natural Skincare Brands On A Budget

I was originally going to call this post ‘Affordable Organic & Natural Skincare Brands’ but affordability is personal, not dependent on the size of your income but how you choose to spend it. My approach to affordable skincare is to find products that are effective for my dry, sensitive skin; that don’t expose it to unnecessary chemicals; and I wouldn’t consider buying simply as a treat.

I know that some of the beauty products I write about could be considered a little on the expensive side. I don’t believe cost is a sign of a product’s efficacy. There are a lot of overpriced brands on the market that seriously under-deliver. When I feature a more expensive product, it’s because I believe it’s worth spending money on and because it’s a product that works for me. I believe it’s important to invest in my skin.

There are a lot of brands that could easily charge a lot more for their brilliant products. There are some great natural and organic skincare brands that suit most budgets. In this post, I’m sharing a few of the most reliable and affordable brands I use.

REN Clean Skincare

REN Clean Skincare is probably the skincare brand I’ve used for the longest, of all the brands I recommend in this post. I can always rely on their products to be efficacious, whilst also being gentle on my skin (all their formulas are pH balanced). It was the gentleness of their products that first attracted me. When I was at university I became aware that my skin was becoming quite sensitive, probably as a result of my less than healthy lifestyle. It was at this time, I discovered REN.

Their ingredients come from sustainable sources, and are chosen for their effectiveness and because they don’t cause irritation to the skin; like the blackcurrant seed oil (an oil rich in Omega 3) in their Evercalm Gentle Cleansing Milk, and the wheatgerm (which increases skin firmness) in their V-Cense Revitalising Night Cream. Both of which I’ve used for years.

I also love REN for their positive approach to social projects. Their ‘Clean to Skin, Clean to Planet’ initiative is part of their pledge to become zero waste by 2021. Campaigns in partnership with Surfers Against Sewage and Surfrider Foundation have seen groups around the UK and USA cleaning up our beaches. They currently use post-consumer-recycled plastic for their tubes, all designed for circular recycling; and they teamed up with TerraCycle to create their ocean plastic bottles. Their next step, refillable bottles in co-ordination with TerraCycle’s Loop program.

REN products are all cruelty-free; some are also vegan. All products are manufactured in the UK.

If you sign up to their newsletter you’ll receive 15% off your first order.

Products I use:

PAI Skincare

It was Julia Rebaudo from Stylonylon that introduced me to PAI Skincare, back in 2017. She had visited their factory in London (where they make all their products) and, knowing we both share a love of natural skincare, suggested I try them.

I met up with their PR and over a lovely lunch she told me about founder, Sarah Brown’s, struggle to find products that were gentle enough for her irritated, hyper-sensitive and acne-prone skin. Finding nothing that worked for her, she created her own.

Sarah’s approach is to use natural and organic ingredients in their products, reducing the use of chemicals that may cause irritation. They don’t use any controversial chemicals, parabens or phthalates. In order to qualify as natural, a minimum of 98% of the ingredients come from nature; certified to a Soil Association COSMOS Natural standard. Where possible they use organic ingredients, which they (and I) believe are better for our health and the environment. Any non-natural ingredients they use in their products are those necessary to keep it fresh or make it work. They meet strict standards, green chemistry principles and don’t exceed 2% of the product’s ingredients.

PAI products are so gentle, they’ve never caused my skin any irritation, but have also given me good results. When my pores are blocked (after cleansing), I use their Kukui & Jojoba Bead Skin Brightening Exfoliator. The natural and bio-degradable jojoba beads remove dead skin cells. I then follow this with their Copaiba Deep Cleanse AHA Mask to remove congestion. My skin is left feeling super clean but not tight or uncomfortable.

PAI take their social responsibilities seriously. Sarah’s mentorship program educates young girls in London, in entrepreneurship and the career opportunities in manufacturing. In addition, they work closely with a few cancer centres, offering cancer sufferers skincare advice throughout their treatment and after.

PAI have taken measures to reduce their environmental impact by using glass wherever possible for product packaging, as well as introducing a recyclable bioplastic tube derived from sustainably sourced Sugarcane. They use only FSC-certified paper and card, and stopped using laminated boxes back in 2015.

PAI products are all cruelty-free and vegan. All products are manufactured in the UK.

If you sign up to their newsletter you’ll receive 10% off your first order.

Products I Use:

Balance Me

Just like myself, Rebecca and Clare Hopkins are on a mission to slow down and take care of themselves. Like a lot of us, they found the fast pace of twenty-first century life stressful and realised that it was taking its toll on their health and skin. Both sisters had developed incredibly sensitive, red skin and were suffering from hormonal breakouts. They decided to create Balance Me, skincare products that enable us all to take a little time for self-care each day. They create natural products from sustainable, renewable ingredients that are kind to your skin and the earth. Some products do contain non-natural ingredients but these are carefully selected and tested to ensure they are safe for your skin.

As with the other brands I’ve mentioned, Balance Me’s products are gentle but effective. Their Tri-Molecular Hyaluronic Serum is one of the most effective and affordable hyaluronic serums I’ve come across. It contains three different molecule sizes that act on different layers of the epidermis, giving skin a thorough moisture boost. I use it morning and night.

Balance Me are making every effort to reduce the environmental impact of their packaging. They use clear and white glass for most of their bottles, since it is the most widely and infinitely recycled material available. However, being heavier than some materials, it does have an impact on carbon emissions. For safety, balms and oils are packaged in plastic, they use 50% post-consumer recycled plastic for them. All their boxes are made with FSC-certified card and if you order from them directly your package will be packed with corn chips, a biodegradable padding material that you can dissolve in water or put on your compost heap. They’re looking into refillables for the future.

Balance Me products are all cruelty-free; some are also vegan. All products are manufactured in the UK.

If you sign up to their newsletter you’ll receive 15% off your first order.

Products I Use:

Susanne Kaufmann Pollution Skin Defense System

Susanne Kaufmann Pollution Skin Defence System* | MENU Gridy Me Mirror in Natural Oak

Coinciding with the 15th Anniversary of Susanne Kaufmann (the beauty brand) they have released the Pollution Skin Defense System, a treatment that consists of 15 x 2ml ampules, to be used over 15 days. The system has been developed to combat skin against pollution. It is widely known that stressed skin ages prematurely, this can be caused by pollution from exhaust fumes; as well as short-wave, blue light from smartphones and computer screens.

There are three types of ampule within the system, each has been developed to improve the condition of pollution-effected skin using natural ingredients, whilst also stimulating the skin’s own mechanisms.

Before living in London I had clear skin; I believe pollution is a real issue for me and that my skin has suffered because of it. Over the last three weeks, I’ve given the Pollution Skin Defense System a try, to see if it will improve the condition my skin.

Ampules 1-5, Vitamin C

Vitamin C is one of the most effective antioxidants. It’s oxidation that causes cells to breakdown, which occurs when free radicals in the environment attack the cells. Vitamin C counteracts this process by eliminating inflammatory processes. It stimulates the skin’s defense mechanism as well as freeing the skin’s detoxification pathways. The Vitamin C face serum contains three main active ingredients; URBALYS, Pentylene Glycol and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid. URBALYS is a natural anti-pollution active ingredient, extracted from the red Schisandra berry. Pentylene Glycol is a natural ingredient derived from sugar can bagasse and corn; it binds water in the skin and inhibits the growth of microorganisms on the skin. 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid is modified vitamin C, as well as being an antioxidant, it prolongs the storage of moisture within the skin and has a lightening effect.

For the first five days I massaged the Vitamin C face serum into my skin every evening, after cleansing. After the first three nights I woke up with small clusters of tiny pimples around my mouth, chin and nose; I guess as a result of the detoxification pathways being opened up. My face was a little bumpy in texture and the tone appeared more uneven than usual but I persevered since something was clearly happening.

Ampules 6-10, Ectoin

Ectoin is a natural molecule derived from halophilic bacteria Halomonas elongata. It stabilises cell membranes and lipids, protecting against harmful environmental influences and prevents premature cell damage. It also increases the storage capacity of moisture within the skin. Alongside ectoin, the ampule also contains QT 40, a combination of glycerin, water and hydrolysed Sea Lettuce (Ulva Lactuca) Extract. The QT 40 stimulates the production of the skin substance as well as the synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid within the body. Magnolia Extract is the third active ingredient in the ampule, neutralising free radicals that have caused skin damage and reducing the inflammatory process in the skin.

After the first five days, I moved on to the second set of ampules, the Ectoin face serum. Again, I applied this serum after cleansing in the evening. My skin calmed down but it was hard to say if I noticed any other distinct changes from using this serum.

Ampules 11-15, Q10

The Q10 face serum has been developed to stimulate the skin’s cellular metabolism, prevent oxidative stress in cells, increase the skin’s moisture storage capacity and collagen production. Q10 is a naturally-occurring enzyme within the skin which due to stress and environmental influences is quickly depleted. The Q10 face serum ampule contains Q10 derived from fermented yeast, it’s an antioxidant and collagen booster; supported by Magnolia Extract, another antioxidant. In addition Lecithin, Sodium and Hyaluronate derived from a low molecular hyaluronic acid increase the skin’s moisture levels, compensating for water loss.

The third (and final) set of five ampules, the Q10 face serum, are for the last five days of the treatment. Again, I applied the serum after cleansing, each evening. My skin seemed to really love this serum, although it may have been the effect of all three. My skin appeared clearer, smoother and brighter.

Susanne Kaufmann Bespoke Rejuvenating Facial

This post was created in collaboration with Susanne Kaufmann.

Susanne Kaufmann is without question my favourite skincare brand, their natural products are gentle yet effective on my sensitive skin, whilst also sustainably made. Recently, I was invited to visit them at their Liberty London pop-up to experience their Bespoke Rejuvenating Facial. It’s a new treatment that incorporates a product they recently developed to coincide with their 15th anniversary, the Pollution Skin Defense System.

To help me relax Andrea (my skincare therapist) sprayed my pillow and the surrounding air with Pillow Spray Calming. It’s a lovely mist with a soothing scent containing lavender and orange oils. Lavender is well-known for its calming properties whilst orange oil supports the respiratory passages, ensuring you breath well throughout your treatment, important for deep relaxation.

The treatment started with a thorough double cleanse using their Cleansing Milk, the base of which is rose-hip seed oil, which is particularly good for dehydrated skin. It also contains a soothing herbal compound of chamomile, sage and St. John’s wort flowers. Andrea then applied Tonic Clarifying, a gentle tonic that contains the same herbal compound as the Cleansing Milk but with the addition of mallow. It doesn’t contain any alcohol so won’t strip the skin like some.

Once my face and décolletage were feeling lovely and clean, a double peel was applied. This consisted of their Enzyme Peel being applied all over the area, before being layered on top with their Facial Peel. The Enzyme Peel uses gentle fruit acids from apple, papaya and kiwi to remove dead skin cells without any abrasiveness (that can stress to the epidermis); it’s a chemical peel but the gentlest kind. It also contains ectoine, fenugreek and fermented white lupins, they help to regenerate skin cells, as well as having a revitalising and anti-inflammatory effect on the skin. In addition to that, aloe vera cools and soothes the skin. The Facial Peel is a physical peel which uses soft plant granules alongside a herbal compound of mallow, yarrow and St. John’s wort flowers to gently remove dead skin cells and impurities. The soft plant granules dissolve in the peeling process so they don’t irritate or scratch the skin.

After Andrea had removed all the dead skin cells and impurities from my skin, she started to give it some much needed revitalisation. Initially, she used the first ampule from the Pollution Skin Defense System, vitamin C. The vitamin C ampoule contains a serum that improves the skin’s own ability to fight against free radicals and at the same time detoxify the cells.

This is when things started to get really interesting. The massage techniques that they use at Susanne Kaufmann are just as important as the products they create. Their products are fantastic and I would wholly recommend using them at home but you will struggle to replicate their massage techniques. For this reason I would suggest you go in and experience a facial with them. The first massage I received was a fascia massage. It’s not the most gentle but the effect is a complete release of tension in the face muscles. Andrea then moved on to a lymphatic drainage massage, to increase the flow of lymph from the face and help remove toxins from the skin. She followed this with the ultimate scalp massage to further release any tension. This is a brilliant treatment for anyone looking for a relaxing facial treatment, not all leave you feeling as refreshed and tension-free as this one.

Andrea then applied the second ampule from the Pollution Skin Defense System, ectoin which stimulates cell regeneration and strengthens cell protection. This was followed by their Lifting Mask Line A which was worked deep into the skin with another gentle face massage. It’s one of their most active anti-ageing products, containing more ectoin, fermented white lupin blossom extract to firm up the tissue, pure bioflavonoids to fight free radicals, and argan oil as its base which has a strong antioxidant effect. This all results in a strong, smoothing and lifting effect.

After about 10 minutes the mask was removed and the the third ampule from the Pollution Skin Defense System was applied, the powerful Q10 serum which stimulates collagen production. This was followed with Day Cream Line A and Eye Cream Line A, both of which also contain ectoin, fermented white lupin blossom extract and pure bioflavonoids. The Day Cream Line A also contains silk proteins which provide the skin with a great deal of moisture and form a protective film. Whilst the Eye Cream Line A contains, in addition, elderberry extract to reduce swollen eyes. Unusually it can be used all over the eyelid (many aren’t). To encourage the absorption of the products, jade rollers were used across my face, neck and décolletage.

The next time Susanne Kaufmann are at Liberty London make sure you book a treatment, just please leave me a slot! They take place every two months, the next ones will be from 25thNovember – 1st December. Alternatively, if you happen to be taking your next holiday at the beautiful São Lourenço do Barrocal in Portugal they offer Susanne Kaufmann treatments. And, if you’re planning a retreat for the new year I’d recommend Hotel Post Bezau in Austria (where the Susanne Kaufmann brand began);  you can incorporate a Bespoke Rejuvenating Facial into your experience. I’m hoping I’ll get the chance to visit and write about both in the coming year.

Evening Skincare Ritual with Immunocologie

I’m lucky that through my work, I get to meet talented and knowledgable people within the skincare industry. Recently, I had the pleasure of meeting Karen Ballou, founder of Immunocologie. Karen is fascinating to speak to, her breadth of knowledge of the skincare industry is astounding; having worked as a therapist, teacher and in product development before creating her own skincare brand. It was her battle with Hodgkin Lymphoma that led her to do so. The products have been developed with the aim of creating the cleanest and most effective skincare on the market. The oils and extracts used within the products are sourced from around the world sustainably and equitably.

Not only did I get the chance to speak to Karen one-to-one but she personally treated me to a facial, a wonderful experience that she talked me through as she went along. There’s little chance of me fully replicating the treatment at home (I just don’t have Karen’s skills), what I have done though is create an evening skincare ritual with Immunocologie products.

I start with Cleansing Lotion, working it thoroughly into my skin (as Karen showed me) before removing it with a damp cloth. It contains desert date seed oil which deeply nourishes the skin and grape seed extract, an antioxidant that defends against free-radicals whilst gently exfoliating and deeply nourishing the skin.

Once or twice a week I will follow this with Exfoliating Lotion, a gentle exfoliator containing lactic acid and glycolic acid. The lactic acid helps to combat breakouts while reducing the appearance of wrinkles and the glycolic acid is great for dull, pigmented and ageing skin, it also stimulates collagen production. The lactic acid helps combat the drying effect of the glycolic acid. It can feel warm and tingly but not unpleasant.

It’s then time to start layering the skin with moisture. A thorough spritz of Vital Ionic Mist kicks things off. It’s a hydrating, mineral-rich toning spray that helps balance the skin. It combines montmorillonite, kaolin and illite clays. Montmorillonite clay is one of the most mineral rich, detoxifiying clays in the world. Kaolin clay soothes the skin whilst removing impurities and cleansing pores. llite tightens pores and gently exfoliates, soaks up excess oil but also pulls blood towards the surface of the skin, boosting circulation.

When you layer moisturising products it’s important to start with the lightest products first, moving towards the thicker ones because the lighter the product the deeper it’s likely to travel into your skin. So first up is Hyaluronic Serum, a wonderful refreshing clear serum that contains two sizes of hyaluronic acid molecule, one helps pull moisture to the surface from within whilst the other helps draw moisture in from the surface (including from the other products I use on top). It’s great for calming inflammation and plumping the skin.

Next up, I use Face Serum, a light dry oil that’s super nourishing thanks to the desert date seed oil and shea seed extract that it contains. It also contains protium heptaphyllum resin extract which comes from an Amazonian tree, it is a natural anti-inflammatory and antioxidant.

For the top layer of moisture I use Night Protection, a rich cream that my skin quickly absorbs. It also contains desert date seed oil and protium heptaphyllum resin extract, as well as moringa oleifera seed oil. It stimulates the production of natural hyaluronic acid to increase hydration within the skin as well as boosting the skin’s elasticity.

Immunocologie Cleansing Milk* | Immunocologie Exfoliating Lotion* | Immunocologie Vital Ionic Mist* | Immunocologie Hyaluronic Serum* | Immunocologie Face Serum* | Immunocologie Night Protection* | Immunocologie Eye Contour Serum*

And lastly, I use Eye Contour Serum, a light creamy serum that tightens and lifts the skin around the eyes, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and boosting skin elasticity. It contains baobab seed oil, a rich source of omega acids which are incredibly nourishing whilst being anti-inflammatory. It also contains lannae microcarpa fruit extract which has a vasoconstrictor effect, meaning it reduces the size of capillaries, causing your eyes to appear less puffy and reducing dark circles.

Nourishing Skincare



At this time of year it’s very important to keep your skin really well nourished. Cold air, hot air and the constant change between the two can leave skin confused and a little traumatised. These are some of the nourishing skincare products I’ve been using in my skincare regimen this season, to keep mine in check.

Immunocologie Body Serum*

I’m obsessed with this moisturising dry oil from Immunocologie. It’s a lightweight oil that vanishes into my skin in less than a minute, so no waiting around to get dressed. The oil is absorbed quickly thanks to Immunocolgie’s Vital Oligo Science, a natural skincare delivery system. It’s fairly mess-free as the spray nozzle makes it easy to apply, and it also smells divine. After using it my skin feels well moisturised but not at all greasy.

The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% +B5

Hyaluronic acid occurs naturally in the skin and it is there to aide in the production of collagen. It also helps skin retain moisture when the molecules are small enough to be absorbed deeply. The Ordinary‘s Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 contains “low, medium and high-molecular weight hyaluronic acid, as well as a next-generation hyaluronic acid crosspolymer at a combined concentration of 2% for multi-depth hydration”. If the molecules are too large and sit on the surface of the skin all they do is draw moisture out of the skin so that just the surface is plumped.

Pai Skincare Instant Calm Redness Serum*

I seem to get through a bottle of this lovely calming serum from Pai (the sensitive skincare specialists) each month. It’s a light fluid that’s easily absorbed, perfect for use under your daily moisturiser or face oil. It contains Sea Aster which “inhibits the release of cutaneous neuropeptides, the molecules that cause skin to flare, while strengthening the surface skin, helping to reduce the appearance of redness; as well as Wild Oat which is famed for its ability to soothe reactive skin, enriched Wild Oat extract works to improve the appearance of delicate or damaged skin and helps to protect skin against environmental irritants”.

Immunocologie Super 7 Elixir Face Serum*

Another really great serum, it’s one which I prefer to use at night as it’s a little thicker and I like to allow it to settle into the skin before applying my night time moisturiser. It’s super nourishing thanks to a few key ingredients. The first of which you might find a little squeamish, Snail Secretion Filtrate. The Korean’s have been using it for ages and have some of the most advanced skincare in the world. It contains lots of good things like hyaluronic acid and antimicrobial peptides, great for both nourishing and repairing the skin. Anther key ingredient, Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract (AKA Okra Extract) has been known to be used in Ayurvedic medicine thanks to its antibacterial properties which help the skin to heal. And, the essential fatty acids and anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties found in Desert Date (Balanites Roxburghii) Seed Oil soften and repair dry and damaged skin.

Pai Skincare Camellia & Rose Gentle Hydrating Cleanser*

If you’re looking for a gentle but effective cleanser, look no further. When your skin is feeling a bit sensitive from the elements the last thing you should do is use something aggressive on it. It’s already on high alert and this would only cause more distress. Instead reach for something soothing and gentle. Pai have developed the perfect cleanser, it’s a cream cleanser that you gently massage into the face and then wash off using their Dual-Effect Sensitive Skin Cloth (which comes with the cleanser). It contains Camellia Oil which has both Omega 9 fatty acids and Vitamin E to nourish the skin, as well as Damask Otto Rose Oil which helps skin retain moisture.

Immunocologie Night Protection*

This is the first dedicated night cream I’ve used in a quite a while. I’d forgotten why it’s important to have a separate moisturiser for day and night. Skincare brands don’t make both so that they can sell you twice as many products but because each offers different properties that are more affective at different times of the day. Immunocologie’s Night Protection works to hydrate and help repair skin overnight. It uses Desert Date (Balanites Roxburghii) Seed Oil just like the Super 7 Elixir Face Serum to soften and repair. Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil which is rich in anti-oxidants and Vitamin C helps defend against free-radicals which age the skin. And, Protium Heptaphyllun Resin is a natural anti-inflammatory and antioxidant.

Guinot Harness The Brightening Power of Vitamin C

Guinot Perfect Brightening Cleansing Oil* | Guinot Vitamin C Brightening Serum* | Guinot Brightening UV Shield SPF50*

Vitamin C (AKA ascorbic acid) is nature’s miracle skin brightener, firmer and smoother. It’s a fantastic anti-oxidant that fights the effects of free-radicals that cause ageing and photo-damage, like hyperpigmentation. It’s also a key component in the production of collagen, the protein that holds skin together and gives it a firm smooth feel. It’s not a new discovery but for me, as I notice the affects of UV light and the ageing process on my skin, it’s become a key ingredient in the products I use.

Guinot uses vitamin C and melanoxyl (which slows down melanin production) in their Newhite range. It’s a line specifically aimed at people with uneven skin tone and/or hyperpigmentation. I’ve been trying out their Perfect Brightening Cleansing Oil, Vitamin C Brightening Serum and Brightening UV Shield SPF50. I got on very well with all the products and noticed that my skin was brighter quite quickly but I was especially fond of the UV Shield. It’s a white cream with tiny grey specks that once warmed in my hands adapts to my skin tone. It gives quite good coverage so I’ve been wearing it with just a slick of mascara on days when I’m at home or just popping to the shops. I really love a good multi-use product.

I used to wear SPF every day as it was in a lot of the products I used, until I changed a few and failed to notice that I was no longer covered. I’ve now gone back to using SPF religiously, again. It’s really important to use a high SPF when you’re trying to tackle uneven skin tone or hyperpigmentation. Melanocyte cells in the skin produce melanin in the skin when triggered by UV light. When your skin is exposed to it, even the dark spots that have previously faded will go darker again, unless you are constantly protecting your skin.

The Perfect Brightening Cleansing Oil is a thin oil, that goes on and spreads easily. We’re always told that opposites attract but that’s not always the case. The oil in this cleansing oil mixes with the oils in your skin, and then, once mixed with water, forms an emulsion which is easily removed. It’s a gentle way of cleansing the skin and removing make-up without stripping it.

Guinot’s Vitamin C Brightening Serum is a lightweight serum that is quickly absorbed. It comes in a small pump with a separate vial of pure vitamin C powder. When you are ready to start using the serum, you break the seal on the vial and pour the powder into the serum, shake it vigorously and then start to use. The vitamin C comes separately so that it stays as active as possible. Ideally you want to use the serum over a period of 14 days, this is when it is most active and will have the greatest effect.

Remember to use the Brightening UV Shield SPF50 after everything else, as your skin will be more sensitive to UV damage.

Masks & Treatments I Swear By

I used to forget to use all the lovely masks and treatments in my beauty drawer; out of sight, out of mind. It’s not that I didn’t want to use them but that I didn’t make the time for them. When you run your own business there’s always something you can do to improve it and I’d always prioritise work over ‘me time’. I’ve come to realise that taking time out for myself is actually really important, not just for the way I look but for my all round wellbeing. And this in itself can impact positively on my ability to bring the best to the table in my work.

I’ve started to notice that when I don’t take care of myself it shows, in my skin, in my hair, in my weight, and these changes can really impact my mood. One small way I’ve made a change recently is to take half an hour in the week to use masks and treatments. Depending on how my skin’s looking, I’ll use one or more of the following.

Eve Lom Rescue Mask

This subtle unsuspecting tube packs a punch when I’m dealing with spots. It does a great job of drawing out all the impurities or at least helps bring them to the surface. It dries out anything that’s a little bit purulent and helps get rid of them quicker.

Antipodes Aura Manuka Honey Mask

Another well used tube is this lovely nourishing mask from Antipodes. The texture is like that of a cream, it’s very quickly absorbed (especially when my skin is a bit dehydrated) and leaves my skin feeling really fresh.

NUORI Supreme Moisture Mask

I mentioned NUORI’s rehydrating mask in my last beauty post, it’s fairly new to me but has already made a strong impression. It’s a bit of an all rounder, not only is it highly moisturising but is also anti-inflammatory and improves elasticity.

Vestige Verdant Bioactive Organic Mask

This mask was recommended to me by skin specialist, Tarryn Warren. It’s a deep cleansing peat-based mask that’s a bit grubby to use but totally worth the mess when you see the results. It’s really great for blackheads and is also good if you have acne.

The Estée Edit Pink Peony Overnight Water Pack

I use this instead of a moisturiser some evenings but if I’ve got a special event or I’m shooting I’ll quite often leave this on for ten minutes in the morning to make sure my make-up goes on well.

Murad Intensive-C Radiance Peel

This is my secret weapon, it breaks down all the dead skin cells on the surface of my skin leaving it feeling smooth and looking brighter. If my skin is dull this is the one I reach for. I’ll often follow it up with one of the moisturising masks above.

And, a candle always helps…

Eve Lom Rescue Mask* | Antipodes Aura Manuka Honey Mask* | NUORI Supreme Moisture Mask* | Vestige Verdant Bioactive Organic Mask | The Estée Edit Pink Peony Overnight Water Pack* | Murad Intensive-C Radiance Peel* | Brooklyn Candle Studio Sweet Fig Mason Jar Candle c/o Wood/Grey*

Brighter Skin

I learnt the hard way that you should always protect your skin. At 17 I burnt my face and chest badly. At the time, it appeared to recover, it’s only now in my 30s that I’m seeing the long-lasting damage I caused. I have uneven skin tone across my face and chest which really bother me, there are also some dark spots on my face that look like freckles but I know aren’t. I’ve looked into ways of reversing the damage and although I’ve not found a quick fix (is there ever one?), I’ve read over and over again that vitamin C can really help to reduce dark marks, even-out skin tone and brighten the skin.

Back in June I wrote about a new beauty concept, NUORI fresh skincare, products that are free from parabens, synthetic colour, synthetic fragrances, mineral oil, petrolatum, PEGs, sulfates, MEA, DEA, TEA, polypropylene glycol, phthalates, and silicones; they come with a best before date. Basically, all of the good stuff without any of the bad stuff that is usually used to preserve products for an unnecessarily long period of time. Earlier this year they launched Supreme-C Serum*, a 20 day intensive treatment that helps repair prior skin damage. It comes in two small bottles each with a separate pipet. Once you’re ready to start using the product, you depress the button in the lid and 100% pure vitamin C is released into the serum below. You shake it and the use the first bottle for 10 days. When it’s finished you do the same with the second bottle.

Halfway through I began to notice that my skin definitely looked a little brighter and the skin tone more even across my cheeks. The darker spots seemed more noticeable to me but I think this is because the rest of my skin was already more even in tone. By the time I had finished the second bottle I could definitely see a difference. My skin isn’t totally even as I think the damage is quite significant. I think that by using this product regularly I will start to see a more pronounced change.

Even if you don’t have visible skin damage, vitamin C treatments could still benefit you, especially if you’re living in a polluted city like London. Vitamin C is an antioxidant which means it’s great for tackling damage from free radicals and and it helps in the production of collagen.

There are a couple more products from NUORI that I’ve also been using, their Perfecting Facial Oil* and Supreme Moisture Mask*. The facial oil is quite viscose and with my skin having been a bit more spotty recently I’ve just been using it when I’ve given my face a mini-facial at home. I start with a double cleanse, then a scrub, followed by a clay-based mask to draw out the impurities, then the Supreme Moisture Mask for 10-15 minutes which leaves my skin feeling dewy and fresh. It’s lightweight in texture for a mask but very effective. I’ll give my skin a little break and then apply a thin layer of the Perfecting Facial Oil. I’ve been trying to do this once a week in order to get my skin back in good shape.

I found out from my Instagram friend @minnabussey that ‘NUORI’ means ‘young’ in Finnish. So keep it fresh and stay young.

Probiotics For Your Skin

Aurelia Probiotic Skincare Eye Revitalising Duo* | Aurelia Probiotic Skincare Refine & Polish Miracle Balm* | Aurelia Probiotic Skincare Calming Botanical Essence*

I love being recommended new skincare products; in an industry that is constantly moving forward there are always exciting developments, lots of them utilising natural ingredients and fewer chemicals. At the end of last year, I was introduced to Aurelia Probiotic Skincare by Marine from Merci Maman (a lovely French jewellery brand you should also check out). Intrigued by the name, I did some research to find out what makes a product ‘probiotic’, and why it’s good for you.

The term ‘probiotic’ comes from the Latin ‘pro’ meaning for and ‘biotic’ meaning life. Probiotics are live bacteria and yeasts that are good for your health, especially your digestive system and can be found in lots of foods.

We are constantly being told how good they are for our insides but Aurelia Probiotic Skincare have discovered that they are also good for the microbiome of our skin.

We are regularly exposed to situations that cause our skin to become stressed and inflamed, such as pollution, a lack of sleep, our hormones, stress, harsh weather and UV light. A little inflammation is natural for the skin but to be constantly inflamed isn’t and causes premature skin ageing. Aurelia’s probiotic technology helps to control inflammation and create balance in the skin.

All Aurelia Probiotic Skincare’s products are manufactured here in England, are cruelty free and free from synthetic fragrances, colorants, parabens, mineral oils, silicones, sulphates, propylene glycol, phthalates, GMO, PEGs, TEA, DEA, MI, formaldehyde, urea, mercury, lead and bee venom.

I’ve been trying their Eye Revitalising Duo, Refine & Polish Miracle Balm and (their latest product) Calming Botanical Essence.

I’ve been struggling to find an eye cream that does everything I want it to. I often wake up with puffy upper eyelids after using some creams. All I want to do is nourish the delicate skin, but I often have an allergic reaction that leaves the skin sore and flakey. It’s only been a week since I started using the Eye Revitalising Duo, which is made up of Revitalise & Brighten Eye Dew and Illuminate & Smooth Puff Reduction Eye Cream. The Revitalise & Brighten Eye Dew has a cooling metal roller applicator which promotes blood circulation around the eye area. I felt a slight tingle the first couple of times I used it that went away within a few seconds. The Illuminate & Smooth Puff Reduction Eye Cream is on the thicker side but quickly melts into the skin. Both have a subtle fragrance. I’ve not experienced any puffiness or sore flakey skin since I started using them.

Refine & Polish Miracle Balm is a gentle exfoliant that can also be used as a 5 minute mask. It removes dead skin cells, smoothing the appearance of the skin without leaving it feeling tight or stripped. It feels like a balm cleanser with small beads of rice bran that gently exfoliate. And the smell is lovely, like walking into an aromatherapists. I’ve been pausing just before washing it off to cup my face with my hands and breath in the scent.

The other product I’ve been using is their Calming Botanical Essence, a spray that’s designed to help you de-stress throughout the day and help you relax at the end of the day when you’re trying to get to sleep. It has the soothing scent of linden blossom, chamomile, camellia and lavender. The 10ml bottle is the perfect size for carrying in your handbag, great for dealing with the stresses of rush hour or for keeping on your desk for testing days.

Votary’s Autumn Skincare Essentials

I find the skincare industry fascinating, it’s constantly evolving and new brands and products come onto the market every day. There is a lot of confusion amongst consumers about what is good and bad when it comes to ingredients. I’ve found that companies using complicated sounding ingredients tend not to be transparent about what they do. My current solution is to look for products that use natural and organic ingredients.

Votary is a new brand I discovered from Navas Batliwalla, the lovely editor behind Disney Roller Girl. Their skincare products use 100% natural ingredients.

“I am passionate about the skin-transforming power of natural oils – that means oils that are derived from plants – whether it’s a vegetable, fruit, seed or flower. Natural plant oils are packed full of nature’s super-ingredients such as Omega-3 fatty acids and are rich in anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing nutrients such as Alpha Linoleic and Ellagic Acid.” Arabella Preston, Votary

My skin often breaks out after going from the cold into heavily central heated rooms, and then if I’m out in the cold too long, will dry up to the point it becomes sore. I asked Votary to recommend their autumn skincare essentials, a selection of products that would help my skin transition into winter. They came back to me with these three products Cleansing Oil – Rose Geranium and Apricot, Toning Serum – Lemon and Neroli, and Facial Oil – Rose Maroc and Sandalwood. Lots of oil-rich products which are great for my naturally dehydrated skin. 

If you have oily skin don’t be afraid to use oil-based products; oil attracts oil, making it great for cleansing, they’re also great for healing the skin when you have a breakout.

I followed the instructions precisely for each product; there are clear written instructions and videos on the website, explaining how to use them. The Cleansing Oil left my skin feeling like velvet, super soft and not oily in the least. There wasn’t that tight feeling either when you know you’ve used something that’s stripped the skin of its natural oils. The Toning Serum gives a fast hit of moisture, my skin absorbed it in a second so I used a little more. I finished with the Facial Oil which felt a little bit greasy at first but after a few minutes it had settled into my skin and left it looking fairly matte, as if I’d used a primer.

There are lots of videos on their website showing you the best techniques for using each of their products; as well as lots of great advice on their blog, The Votarist.

You can buy these products directly from Votary, they’re also stocked by Liberty London in the UK and Anthropologie in the US.

NUORI Fresh Skincare

NUORI Vital Foaming Cleanser* | NUORI Vital Facial Cream*

So many people now question what goes into the food they eat, they want to know where it’s come from, where it was made and how. So why aren’t we asking the same thing of our skincare? Beauty advertising is so good that we are willing to believe that anything we use will keep us looking youthful.

Since the beginning of the year I’ve been looking at how I can live in a better way, and with that, how what I buy impacts the world. I’m careful about the brands I choose to work with and how I use my blog to showcase brands. I look for brands that are doing things in a more considered and sustainable way. Beauty for me is such a difficult one to fathom, using natural and organic products isn’t always the best for the planet or your skin, and sometimes an ingredient created in a lab is better for both. Whilst doing some research I came across NUORI, a Danish skincare brand, launched in September last year, that create fresh skincare products.

NUORI is what you get when a new brand challenges an established industry to think outside the box. They create each of their fresh skincare products in small batches every 12 weeks. Over time active ingredients breakdown with standard skincare products, with NUORI their products are at 100% efficacy. They use 100% natural ingredients, without any synthetic preservatives. Their products are free from parabens, synthetic colour, synthetic fragrances, mineral oil, petrolatum, PEGs, sulfates, MEA, DEA, TEA, polypropylene glycol, phthalates, and silicones. Their packaging minimises exposure to air, light, and bacteria, before and during use.

For over a month I’ve been using their Vital Foaming Cleanser and Vital Facial Cream. Over that time they have remained as effective as the day I started using them and look, smell and feel exactly the same. The Vital Foaming Cleanser is a rich creamy foam that cleans without stripping, you apply it to dry skin and then rinse with warm water. It’s an effective cleanser that I will continue to use it until the pump runs dry. The other product I’ve been using, their Vital Facial Cream, contains hyaluronic acid and squalane, two ingredients I’m currently obsessed with. They’re both great for improving the levels of moisture in the skin, hyaluronic acid replaces lost moisture and squalane helps to keep it there. I use a lot of moisturising products morning and night, a serum, an oil, a moisturiser and an SPF booster. The lightweight cream has become part of my morning regime and I’ve found it very effective.

If you would like to try their products or find out more about NUORI, visit their site.

Winter Skincare Tips with Antipodes

Although the weather so far this winter has been pretty mild I’ve still felt the need to ramp up my skincare routine to compensate for the wind, changes in temperature and home heating. These three can play havoc with my skin so I tend to use more moisturising products that will help prepare and protect it at this time of the year.

Earlier this year I discovered a new skincare brand called Antipodes (back in May I wrote a post about their Aura Manuka Honey Mask). If, like me, you’re a fan of Aesop you are going to love Antipodes. The products are made with bioactive plant ingredients and are certified organic and approved for vegetarians. I love using their rich moisturising mask so I thought they might be a good place to start when looking for products that would be deeply moisturising and without any nasties. Once again I’ve been very impressed.

Hosanna H2O Intensive Skin-Plumping Serum

Hosanna H2O Intensive Skin-Plumping Serum*

Serums might mean another step in your skincare routine but I can assure you it’s not one you’ll regret. This is my favourite of the four products I tried, the results were instantaneous. It does exactly what it says it will, my skin felt plumped from the first use. It has a nice texture and is absorped very fast.

Rejoice Light Facial Day Cream

Rejoice Light Facial Day Cream*

This moisturiser is actually a lot richer than I was expecting from the name but again it’s quickly absorped. A little goes along way, it spreads easily. Carry this one around in your bag for a moisture hit during the day.

Joyous Protein-Rich Night Replenish Serum

Joyous Protein-Rich Night Replenish Serum*

The Joyous night serum is a lot more oily than the Skin-Plumping serum. It’s actually more of a rich and luscious oil. After your evening cleanse, pat this over your face avoiding your eyes. Give it a few minutes and then use the next product or your favourite night cream.

Avocado Pear Nourishing Night Cream

Avocado Pear Nourishing Night Cream*

Antipodes’ Nourishing Night Cream has a slightly unusual but not unpleasant scent. It’s super rich and has been doing great things to my skin overnight. I wake up without fearing what I’ll find in the mirror. My skin has been well nourished and appears a lot more even in texture and tone.

Aesop Daily Essentials

I test out a lot of amazing skincare products, these two are my Aesop daily essentials and have remained a constant in my skincare arsenal for about six months, taking me seamlessly from winter into summer.

My skin is normal to dry and both these products are perfect for it. The Fabulous Face Cleanser is a gentle foaming cleanser that cleans the skin without stripping away every natural oil it produces; it also removes my eye make-up. The Camellia Nut Hydrating Facial Cream is quite rich but not heavy and is quickly absorbed by my skin; when it’s feeling a bit dehydrated I top it up with another layer 10-15 minutes later.

The little black glass candle was a gift from the lovely people at Sandro. Even when it’s not lit it gives off a wonderful scent. I’ll get a waft every now and then, look round to see who’s walked in the room that smells so good, and then realise that there’s no one there.

Aesop Fabulous Face Cleanser | Aesop Camellia Nut Facial Hydrating Cream | Sandro Candle

Exit mobile version